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ePaper created 2014-08-04, 15:09:49 | version 1.32.01
fibres). There is currently research on- going to look at other bio-waxes from berries, rice or sunflowers. The bio-wax particles produced using the high pres- sure system not only act as an abrasive but can be given a secondary function. Micro-sponges could also be used as a means of transport for liquid ac- tives. And it is even considered that the particles may carry a liquid that is released on use. Greentech offer numerous natural alternatives to microplastics. These in- clude exfoliants from poppy seeds, which are particularly gentle, from loofah, Bio-Rice1 or naturally sustain- able Tabashirex from bamboo. Exfo- liants from fruit such as strawberries, raspberries, orange1 and lemon1 , de- pending on the particle size, are suit- able for the face or the body. Exfoliants from grape seed add an attractive colour. Stable exfoliant granules for all formulations are acquired from nuts like coconuts, hazel nuts, and Argan1 as well as from the seeds from apricots and peaches. Olive stone exfoliant, with an average hardness grade, is popular in facial care. Mineral exfoliants like sand, lava rock or ghassoul, are economical and a good alternative to polyethylene mi- cro-spheres. Salt and sugar exfoliants are, based on their high hardness level, ideal for body care, and pure luxury is offered by a shimmering mother-of- pearl exfoliant. Many companies are now removing plastic microbeads from their products. So what are the latest natural solutions for cosmetics companies to phase out PE beads from their formulations? 28 COSSMA 7-8I2014 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS Amorim Cork Composites offer a sustainably produced exfoliant gran- ules with different sized particles based on Portuguese cork oaks. By careful treatment the oak can be harvested over the whole lifetime of this amazing tree. The product is sup- plied bleached at a bacterial load of less than 10/g, and unbleached. A&E Connock now offers an ex- panded range of natural exfoliant in- gredients. Ground loofah has a light abrasive and pumice has more aggres- sive scrub qualities. Also featured are beads derived from jojoba wax and castor oil which, whilst white in colour, provide a natural and environmentally positive option. Desert Whale Jojoba’s Jojoba Scrubeads is gentle enough for daily use. This natural, affordable alterna- tive is created from a combination of castor oil and jojoba wax. Jojoba, an oil extracted from the seeds of a desert shrub, is claimed to smooth the skin’s surface and to accelerate the skin’s nat- ural renewal process. They are avail- able in a variety of colours and sizes. Evonik’s Silica Business Line offers Sipernat 2200 and Sipernat 22 mineral and nature-identical replacements for PE beads. Other alternatives are available from Lessonia, Floratech and Worlée, (see COSSMA 3/2014, S. 10*). AM 1 The latest exfoliant particle developments *Further information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel PE microbeads Natural alternatives abound The choice of natural alternatives for manufacturers wanting to replace PE microbeads is growing S and and nutshell are alterna- tives, but with the disadvantage, according to the researcher Dr. Sebastian Pörschke of the Fraunhofer Umsicht, that they are so abrasive on the processing equipment that they wear them down quickly. And because of their water solubility salts are not suitable for all formulations. At the Fraunhofer Umsicht alternatives are being tested based on renewable re- sources such as bees wax, carnauba wax and candelilla wax, which are rela- tively rapidly broken down in water and appear to be particularly promising. Using the current processing tech- niques both cold milled biowax pow- ders as well as high pressure PGSS (Particles from Gas Saturated Solu- tions) can be produced. In contrast to the commonly used current system, specially prepared particles can be produced (e.g. spherical, porous parti- cles, micro-sponges or other different The issue of Plastic microbeads at a glance Plastic microbeads used as mild exfoliants in scrubs, peeling creams, shower gels and tooth- pastes have become quite an issue lately. They are claimed to be too small to be retained by the standard filters used at sewage treatment plants and therefore enter the marine environment and can also enter the food chain. The state of Illinois has now been the first state in the US to ban the sale and manufacture of soaps and cosmetics containing microbeads, prohibiting the manufacture of products containing micro beads by the end of 2018 and the sale of the products by the end of 2019. photo:Imagehub,Shutterstock.com Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00281 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for August: User name: cossma8 Password: nature DownloadsDownloads COS1408_28_Mikroperlen_GB_COS1402_24_Rahn_D 28.07.14 14:29 Seite 28