Please activate JavaScript!
Please install Adobe Flash Player, click here for download
ePaper created 2014-08-04, 15:09:49 | version 1.32.01
COSSMA 7-8I2014 13 INGREDIENTS FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS Prof. Dr. habil. Gerald Muschiolik Food Innovation Consultant Potsdam; Dipl.-Ing. Engelbert Grzeschik, EG Ölmühle & Naturprodukte, Kroppenstedt Johannes Ertelt, Pharmacist AureliaSan, Bisingen; Hans-Peter Berizzi Eduard Walter KG Mühle, Böhl-Iggelheim www.eg-oelmuehle.de www.aureliasan.de www.walter-muehle.de ROE. The skin cream with a total oil content of 30% contains 5% and 15% of ROE. As emulsifier and stabiliser trimulsin*17 , a natural active compound based on wheat meal, is used. The cereal protein fractions act here as an emulsifier. Use as an emulsifier and stabiliser Trimulsin-W based on wheat meal disperses well in water (soluble total protein phase). It contains about 19% total protein – 155 mg of albumin per gram of cereal protein, and different globulins18 – the rest consists of the heat swelling wheat starches amylose and amylopectin. Using this ingredient and by adding other water-soluble polysaccharides natural emulsions can be created with a wide variety of consistencies. Alongside this ingredient various Trimulsin cereal grains, such as barley, oats, rice and maze, also act as emulsi- fiers and consistency adjusters with a good soluble protein phase. The protein phase of these disper- sions has, at a temperature of below 90°C, good heat stability such that hot emulsions can be produced without loss of their emulsifying properties. ROE sunflower oil blends were emulsified at a temperature of around 70°C in a preheated Trimulsin-W dis- persion. This dispersion contained in addition 0.5–1.0% of other ionic or neutral polysaccharides. After heating for 10 minutes at about 83°C and cool- ing to 50–60°C the blend is well dis- persed19 with a contribution from the pressure homogenizer. The model skin cream contained at least 1.5% of grain protein and 8% of this ingredient respectively. The model lotion contained 0.95% protein and 5% respectively. The emulsions are creamy and, de- pending on the concentration of the emulsifier and the addition of further polysaccharides, the spreadability of a lotion as well as the consistency of a cream can be adjusted to suit the desired applications. *Boswellia resin oil extract is supplied by EG Ölmühle & Naturprodukte and Trimulsin* comes from Eduard Walter KG of Mühle **sold by AureliaSan The reference list can be found on the Internet, (see Internet panel) Such oil concentrates can be blend- ed well with oils of varying spreading ability, such as coconut oil, avocado oil and hemp oil, and even plant butters such as shea butter, to change the ap- plication properties, and the smooth feel. In order to identify the extraction ef- fect of the SPE process comparative tri- als were carried out with resins of Boswellia serrata (Salai tree, Indian Boswellia) and Boswellia papyrifera from the Sudan, to ensure that the per- centage of 3-OH-11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA) und 3-O-acetyl-11-keto-β- boswellic acid (AKBA) were identified in the resin oil extract (ROE). As an oil seed sesame seed was used to prepare ROE and compared with an alcoholic ethanol extract of AureliaSan (Tab. 1). The results show that the ratio of extracted boswellic acids KBA and AKBA is somewhat higher due to ex- traction and concentration, and leads to a higher proportion of AKBA. Since, in addition to the KBA and the AKBA content, the BA content also controls the anti-inflammatory ef- fect, the trials measured, on the basis of the systemic inflammation reduc- tion (activity of the inducible mito- chondrial Prostaglandin-E2-Synthase- 1 = mPGES-1), which proportions of ethanolic AureliaSan extract and ROE (extracted with sesame oil) and en- riched with sunflower oil (SFO) deliver the half maximal inhibitory concentra- tion (IC50, µg/ml Plasma). From these results it was seen that, with an ade- quate enrichment of plant oil with BA the amount of mPGES-1 seen in table 2 also produces an effect in cosmetics (e.g. avoiding skin irritation). A skin cream should, for a positive effect on health, have about 2.8 times the amount of ROE compared with AureliSan alcohol extract. Based on table 1 we can conclude that alongside the alcoholic extracts ROE is also suit- able for cosmetics used in the reduc- tion or prevention of skin irritation. The lotion contains a total oil con- tent of 20%, of which 2.5% and 5% are Species Extract mPGES-1 IC50 [µg/ml] AureliSan extract, ethanolic 2.7 Resin oil extract, sesame oil 7.6 AureliaSan Extract, ethanolic 2.3 Resin oil extract, sesame oil 6.9 Tab. 2: Comparison of the average inhibitory concentration (IC50) for the inhibition of skin inflammation of mPGES-1 (of AureliaSan extract and gum resin oil extract) Boswellia serrata Boswellia papyrifera Boswellia resin extract for the skin To produce Boswellia dermatological products** for intensive care and as an accompaniment to other therapies such as neurodermitis, psoriasis and in the area of the joints, African and Indian Olibanum extract from different Boswellia plants2,3 is used in an appropri- ate pharmaceutical quality. Whilst for systemic applications specially isolated ingredients, i.e. boswellic acid’s and synthetic derivates, are used4,5 . Topical applications such as ointments, creams and pasty products also use resin powder or resin extract (RE) which is obtained by solvent extraction or water vapour distillation. To improve the penetration of boswellic acid (BA) into the skin this, or RE, is ap- plied with plant oils that contain a high level of linolic and α-linoleic acid, for example hemp oil. Or the BA are mixed with isostearyl alcohol or polyoxyethyl- ene isostearic acid9 . Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00270 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for August: User name: cossma8 Password: nature DownloadsDownloads COS1408_12_Muschiolik_GB_COS1408_12_Muschiolik_D 28.07.14 14:23 Seite 13