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Heinz-Jürgen Weiland, R&D Director, Logocos: A large number of the prod- ucts in our Logona, Sante and Heliotrop ranges are vegan. Our clients also appreciate our withdrawal from the Chinese market which allows us to guarantee that our products are not animal tested. We have, today, plenty of possibili- ties to produce high class and effective natural cosmetics with vegan formula- tions. We don‘t really have to avoid anything (almost) in the vegan trend. But there are limits: intensive red colours for lipsticks and nail polish, as well as other colour cosmetics, are cur- rently only available with synthetic col- orants or carmine. Vegan bio-cosmet- ics in the colour cosmetics range must therefore avoid the use of these col- orants. And in the hairstyling range we are still seeking a replacement for syn- thetic polymers. For this reason we still often use chitosan from crabshells as a firming agent in hairstyling products. However here too we have an idea for a vegan option: we are currently running some intensive tests to use chitosan from mushrooms. The most significant difference be- tween natural cosmetics and vegan cosmetics is the fact that bio/natural products are not necessarily vegan. And in the other direction vegan is not necessarily natural – even pure chem- istry is not of animal origin. Formaldehyde, PEGs and parabens are all acceptable as vegan cosmetics ingredients. The following INCI list of ingredi- ents should be avoided by serious con- sumers of vegan cosmetics: • Honey, Mel • Beeswax, Cera Flava or Cera Alba • Lactic acid • Cochineal or Carmine: Carmine is a colorant obtained from the cochineal scale insect • Chitin or Chitosan: organic basis of the outer shell of insects and crus- taceans • Schellack, Shellac: a hard resin ob- tained from the laccifer insect Our cooperative partner PETA has also prepared an extensive list of ani- mal ingredients and their alternatives in order to avoid these in foodstuffs, cosmetics and other products*. Trendy ingredients for vegan cos- metics are, for example, biotechnolog- ically produced hyaluronic acid, berry wax rather than beeswax, as well as in- gredients that do not come from the food chain. We are currently research- 22 COSSMA 7-8I2014 ing a very promising extract from the leaves of the sea buckthorn with the aim of being able to use all active sub- stances from a plant. This is why we are also investigating substances that previously had no val- ue. The initial results show that the sea buckthorn leaves contain, among other things, a high level of anti-oxidant flavonoids. We are working with our partners to see how this valuable in- gredient can be released from the leaves and how best the extract can be introduced into the emulsion. In the near future this oil from sea buckthorn leaves should be introduced into the Logona Age-Protection range to re- place the current sea buckthorn oil. In the future we want to try to introduce a lot more substances that have so far not been used. Dr. Klaus Hempel, head of R&D, Mann & Schröder: Although we generally do not promote our prod- ucts as vegan the majori- ty of our ranges are produced without the use of animal-based ingredients. Animal ingredients are used in only very few of our products. An advantage of vegan cosmetics is that these body care products can be based on synthet- ic ingredients. Natural or nature-iden- tical products, however, must be made from natural ingredients. These could, possibly trigger allergies because of their high incidence of plant ingredi- ents. The disadvantage is that there are hence limitations to the different in- gredients available and so the prod- ucts may become more expensive as other plant-based or synthetic ingredi- ents have to be sought. By avoiding an- imal-based products, such as milk pro- tein or honey, one is also avoiding sub- stances that have been used for millennia for their caring and healing properties. Vegan and traditional natural cos- metics do not have to be mutually ex- Vegan cosmetics do not have to be exclusively from plant-based ingredients Vegan cosmetics Limitations in formulating? There is presently a strong demand for vegan cosmetics. COSSMA wanted to know, from cosmetics manufacturers of vegan products what the limitations are in formulating vegan cosmetics and which ingredients will find more applications in the future. photo:Gzaleckas,Shutterstock.com MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT COS1408_22_Valder_GB_COS1402_22_Raddatz_D 28.07.14 14:27 Seite 22