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WHAT IS DIFFERENT IN THE BRAZILIAN COSMETICS MARKET? Firstly, multiple waves of immigration and the multiethnic complexion. It’s virtually a laboratory for skin tones, color invention and innovation. Brazilian consumers are making shopping into an experience enjoyed with friends, with high service expectations from the retailers, brands, beauticians, hair dressers and health professionals. Also, Brazilians are optimistic and this young and dynamic coun- try has a sense of pride. It’s ready to host ma- jor international events like the FIFA World Cup in 2014 and the Olympics in 2016. In terms of beauty, looking after yourself is fun- damental to the culture – sport and cosmetic surgery are quite acceptable. Brazilian women want natural and healthy looks, hair care and body care are a matter of honor. WHAT MAJOR CHANGES HAVE BEEN WIT- NESSED IN THE COSMETICS MARKET IN BRAZIL DURING THE LAST 3 YEARS? One area is the continued trend toward indi- vidualization. Just two examples: “in-house spa” and “in-house beauty salon” – concepts that have been explored intensively by some companies. Other fascinating changes have been the natural versus strong color trend, with decorative hair and nails, or primers that transform skin imperfections in high defini- tion. Then there were the multifunctional products like BB Creams, 3-5-8 in one con- cept, dry-touch facial skin care products that include sunscreens, and products for people aged 50 to 70. Another global trend witnessed here is the development of male lines. Brazil is now the second biggest international market in this segment, with after shaves that include sun- screens and anti-ageing ingredients, or 3-in- 1 shampoos. The new man here thinks a lot about well-being and his appearance. In 2012, nanotechnology made strong progress with innovative skin and hair care launches. The trend has also continued in natural and organic products with environmentally friendly packaging. In terms of safety and efficacy, the 3R con- cept was very important in Brazil (reduction, refinement and replacement of animal test- ing) because of the prohibition in Europe in March 2013. Other countries are sure to fol- low, including Brazil. WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT SKIN CARE AND COLOR COSMETICS TRENDS? BB cream concepts could move into men’s care and products for oily skin into older age groups. There will be further biotechnology Jadir Nunes: Vice-President of ABC (Brazilian Association of Cosmetology) President of IFSCC Brazil 2013-2014 (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemistries) TO LIFT THE VEIL ON THE LATEST TRENDS AND DEVELOPMENTS IN BRAZIL, COS MAGAZINE SPOKE TO AN INSIDER WITH OVER 30 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN A VARIETY OF FRONT-LINE FIELDS IN THE PHARMACEUTICAL AND COSMETICS INDUSTRY: DR. JADIR NUNES A NATION OF MANY FACES and nanotechnology improvements, with new product segments, formulas, active in- gredients, and concentrated products like serums. There’s growing demand for sun- screens, UV protection and “sensoriality”. Consumers want a broader spectrum of products and more ease-of-use. Color cos- metics will focus on skin tones, formulas matched to fashion trends, and innovations like minerals, soft textures and natural fin- ishes. Sensitive skin products and hypoaller- genic nail polish will be in demand. Male products will become more sophisticated and enter makeup and hair colorants in the short term. Another growth area: eyelash treatment, and added volume. AND THE MOST IMPORTANT CHALLENGE FOR MANUFACTURERS? I think the main challenge is to align the need for constant innovation, for example in fragrances, flavors, pigments, active ingredi- ents, packaging materials and assets with the local sourcing of these materials – with- out imports! Once the finished product is there, the challenge is to streamline export processes. Registration is also a challenge. In 2013, on average it took 6 months for the health authority to release products, delay- ing many launches and impacting sales, es- pecially seasonal lines like sun protection. New processes are in the pipeline to give more responsibility to manufacturers in terms of quality and adherence to stability, microbiological, safety and efficacy stan- dards. 7 www.merck4cosmetics.com COVER STORY COS1408_EH_Merck_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 24.07.14 13:09 Seite 7