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ePaper created 2014-08-04, 15:09:49 | version 1.32.01
S kin ageing can be separated into intrinsic ageing i.e. ageing due to time passing by, and extrinsic ageing i.e. ageing due to environmen- tal exposure. Visible signs of extrinsic skin ageing are the results of several factors: UV-A radiation, free radicals i.e. oxidative stress and reduced ability of the skin to synthesize collagen, elastin, hyaluron- ic acid compounded by an increase in the Matrix Metallo Proteases (MMPs) which destroy the fibres and the matrix of the dermis. These visible signs in- clude fine lines and wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, with solar lentigines, elastosis, solar comedones and promi- nent pores. Stabilizing UV-A protection The objective of a total anti-ageing protection is to provide stable UV-A protection, efficient free radical protec- tion, increase the synthesis of colla- FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS INGREDIENTS gen, elastin and hyaluronic acid and/or inhibit the MMPs. The most common UV-A filter used is Avobenzone. It is one of only two UV- A filters approved in both the EU and the US. Avobenzone is not photo- stable; it rapidly undergoes photo- chemical degradation upon exposure to UV. To overcome this, formulations with Avobenzone must also contain a stabilizer. Kansol with the INCI name Pong- amol is a natural UV-A filter extracted from the seeds of Millettia pinnata, a tree from the pea family. It is an off- white powder of >95% purity with a MW of 294.3 and is soluble in oils. The UV spectrum shows a maximum peak at 350 nm, i.e. in the UV-A region: It is highly photostable in the UV-B and UV-A range: In a recent study performed by Helioscreen1 the potential of this natu- ral UV filter to stabilize Avobenzone was evaluated. Two products were test- ed: one containing 3% Avobenzone, 8% Octyl Methoxicinnamate (OCMC) and 14.5% other UV filters (including Tita- nium dioxide), the second containing A natural, and complete protection against skin ageing Anti-ageing approach combining three natural extracts photo:SydaProductions,Shutterstock.com Alain Khaiat from Seers Consulting shows how, combining three natural extracts, presents a natural and yet effective approach to anti-ageing protection. Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00277 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for August: User name: cossma8 Password: nature DownloadsDownloads COS1408_14_Naturkosmetik_GB_COS1307-8_14_Plantasense_D 28.07.14 14:24 Seite 14