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ePaper created 2014-08-04, 15:09:49 | version 1.32.01
12 COSSMA 7-8I2014 FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS INGREDIENTS T he use of gum resin extract (RE) in cosmetics is successful main- ly in sun creams in reducing in- flammation, and in creams used after hair removal7,12 . Furthermore RE is used in face creams in order to smooth and relax the skin, to reduce wrinkles, to reduce dry and wrinkly skin12 , and to reduce or prevent skin irritation7, 11, 13 . Because it is so expensive to pro- duce6 RE and to isolate6,14 boswellic acid Olibanum oil extract for natural cosmetics A smart combination The production of olibanum extracts and isolating of boswellia acids is a costly process. Prof. Dr. habil. Gerald Muschiolik et al. here present a special application of short press extraction with which an oil extract* of Boswellia gum resin can be obtained. Blended with other oils that improve the penetration performance, and the emulsifying and stabilising action of Trimulsin from wheat flour, it is highly suitable for natural emulsions. Resin Boswellia papyrifera Boswellia serrata Producer AureliaSan EG Ölmühle AureliaSan EG Ölmühle Solvent Ethanol Sesam oill Ethanol Sesam oil Content of AKBA [g/g in %] 19.83 8.43 3.65 1.63 Content of KBA [g/g in %] 1.84 1.02 2.94 1.42 Ratio of AKBA:KBA 10.78 8.26 1.24 1.15 Tab. 1: Comparison of KBA and AKBA amounts in alcoholic AureliaSan extract and in sesame oil (BA) research was carried out to see whether the use of Short Press Extrac- tion (SPE)1 technology would allow the production of BA enriched plant oils. Production of incense oil extracts Using SPE technology grinded gum resin is mixed with dehulled oil seed from sunflower or sesame plants and for a short time subjected to high pres- sure in a screw oil press. The native plant oil extracts the Boswellia resin ingredients. SPE technology was developed in order to extract plant based ingredi- ents such as, for example, herbs, roots, and fruit skins15 . In this way oil extracts such as lavender oil concentrate are also seen as being suitable for fra- grancing cosmetics or to help enrich them with anti-oxidative or bioactive plant ingredients from plant concen- trates. Specially obtained Boswellia resin oil extract for improved skin penetration photos:NataliiaMelnychuk,H.J.Schneider,Shutterstock.com COS1408_12_Muschiolik_GB_COS1408_12_Muschiolik_D 28.07.14 14:23 Seite 12