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has a much higher percentage of very young consumers. Our latest initiative – The Beauty of Asia – discloses the latest beauty se- crets from the diversified Asian market in both, colour cosmetics and personal care. All these findings are based on a thorough analysis carried out by our teams of local, regional and global experts. Whatever is desired is the focus: beautiful light and flawless skin, high UV protection for beauty, and skin care 42 COSSMA 4I2015 PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS products or colourful highlights for eyes and lips. The diversified needs of Asian skin, all over the world, can be addressed as shown in the compilation of 10 formulations developed by our experts: The Beauty of Asia. To give on- ly one example: all over Asia, women focus on make-up around the eyes. Al- though there are different eye shapes, they are usually enhanced by eyeliners and mascara. The luminous eye liner called Calligraphic Eyes combines a bright black shade with precious gold- en highlights and contains Ronastar Diamond Black IQ and Ronastar Gold- en Jewel – with low heavy metal con- tent for sensitive skin. Fun formulations for the younger generation YoungStar is a concept that ex- plores shimmer, sparkle and protec- tion for the younger generation, and attempts to make children’s every- day products more attractive. The Sparkling Dolphin tooth gel with Tim- iron Diamond Cluster MP-149 and Tim- iron Starluster MP-115 makes oral care products stand out with a little silver- white shimmer effect, and is appealing to kids due to the bubble gum flavor. The lip gloss Pretty Princess in a fruity fresh pink colour and with a strawberry flavor includes the interference pig- ment Timiron Super Red, which pro- vides a subtle red shimmer effect. Sun protection is one of the most important areas in kids cosmetics. The sun protection cream Petite Mermaid, which contains the interference pig- ment Timiron Starlight Blue, leaves some sparkle on the skin and is a deli- photo:Merck Knowing the Asian market well is key to a successful market entry Ī T he fast growing region of Asia has a special eye on premium products on the one hand, and on reliable mass-market products on the other hand. In Asia, many con- sumers already have high expertise re- garding cosmetics ingredients. Conse- quently the careful selection of the selected ingredients is essential. But inspiration comes not only from the top three trend-setting coun- tries Japan, China and Korea. In addi- tion to regional perceptions of beauty like a perfect, flawless light skin, there are also country-specific colour trends and tastes. And the needs of local con- sumers vary to a great extent. Japan, for example, has the world’s oldest popu- lation, with an average age of almost 50. Consequently anti-ageing products are of high importance. India, in con- trast to this, has a higher focus on colourful mass-market products as it Differences in Asian skin Asian skin has a thinner outer layer (stratum corneum). It is more dehydrated and has the highest TEWL (trans epidermal water loss). It is sensitive to environmental factors and chemi- cals, gets clogged easily, suffers from bigger acne scars, as well as deeper wrinkles around the eyes and lips. It contains more melanin and is prone to pigmentation disorders such as hyper pigmentation, freckles and melasma. It can often have a yellow undertone, ranging from very light to tan. It is often sensitive and easily damaged. It tans easily and is prone to pigmentation, which means that UV exposure can cause problems. Inspiring facts and ideas for trend formulations Dr. Dagmar Kleefeld from Merck presents the latest insights into the realities of Asian skin care and colour cosmetics; provides suggestions for the younger generation; and presents the latest findings concerning some of the company’s trend ingredients. COS1504_42_Merck_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.03.15 13:11 Seite 42 COS1504_42_Merck_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.03.1513:11 Seite 42

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