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E xposure to environmental stress and cosmetic treatments, such as bleaching or colouring can damage the hair severely. One out- come is that the protective lipid layer is removed, exposing the underlying cuti- cle cells. Without the lipid layer, the hair is prone to damage and the other- wise smooth cuticle layer becomes rough with cells in an upright position. A visible consequence is dry and dull hair, which is difficult to comb and sus- ceptible to humidity uptake and static flyaway effects. Silicones in hair care products Cosmetic hair care products are supposed to straighten the cuticle cell layer and to cover the hair with a lipophilic replacement. This is usually achieved with the help of silicones alone or in combination with cationic conditioners, such as Polyquaternium, PCA Glyceryl Oleate. These efficiently create a non-greasy film on the hair surface. The silicone film covers hair damage and eliminates most of the mentioned negative effects. Especially due to their silky touch, silicones are considered the benchmark in hair care. On the downside, silicones are banned from natural and organic cos- metics (e.g. Cosmos) because of the environmental hazardous chlorinated hydrocarbons they are made of and the questions arising concerning their bio- accumulative properties. Moreover, some silicones are known to build-up multiple layers on the hair, thereby making it difficult to style. Oils as natural alternatives Natural alternatives, in the form of complex plant oils, such as Argan oil, are already well-established in a large variety of emulsion-based conditioner formulations. However, in surfactant- based shampoos even small amounts of these oils make formulations unsta- ble and cause them to visibly separate. 12 COSSMA 4I2015 FOCUS: BODY CARE INGREDIENTS Implementing such oils, as condition- ers in these formulations at very low concentrations, is therefore more like- ly the result of clever marketing rather than of technical meaningfulness. So for any oil to be interesting for hair care, the stable integration into differ- ent kind of formulations is a basic requirement. New solution for hair care Dermofeel Sensolv is a polar oil with the INCI name Isoamyl Laurate. It combines the performance and the sensorial sensation of silicones with the ecological compatibility of more complex plant oils. In addition, and unlike Argan oil for example, it can be incorporated in performance-relevant concentrations and into clear surfac- tant-based hair care formulations (optimum 0.5–1%). The exact maxi- mum concentrations thereby depend on the composition and the amount of surfactants used in the formulation. This oil is a 100% naturally-derived basic ester oil and is well established as a silicone alternative in natural and conventional skin care products. It is colourless, low viscous and its high spreadability improves the sensorial feeling and texture of cosmetic formu- lations. It offers good skin compatibili- ty and, due to its biodegradability and low aquatic toxicity, it can be consid- ered as environmentally friendly. Incorporating oils into surfactant- based formulations may slightly de- crease the viscosity, which then needs to be adjusted by thickening agents. Hair Care A naturally-derived silicone replacement The curl retention properties were comparable with a benchmark silicone photo:ValuaVitaly,Shutterstock.com The ester oil Dermofeel Sensolv is a natural conditioner alternative to silicones, and is compatible with a large variety of hair care formulations. Its effective and reversible hydrophobic interaction with the hair surface – even in the absence of cationic conditioners – improves combing forces, static effects, curl retentions and the sensorial profile of hair. Additional information can be found at www.cossma.com/qr00005 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for April: User name: cossma4 Password: body DownloadsDownloads Ī COS1504_12_Stratemans_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 30.03.15 10:08 Seite 12 COS1504_12_Stratemans_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 30.03.1510:08 Seite 12