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ePaper created 2015-04-07, 08:37:00 | version 1.37.0
in alcohol-based systems and is partic- ularly effective in sun care products, therefore offering manufacturers high formulation versatility. As it only has a small impact on formulation viscosity, it can be used in a wide range of prod- uct formats, especially in low viscous sunscreen sprays – in contrast to tradi- tional acrylate based film formers, it can also be formulated into very high oil phase formulations. The new film- forming polymer offers good compati- bility with sunscreen actives and a high ease of use in formulation and produc- tion. Supplied as a low-viscosity, ethanolic solution (40% solids), it re- quires no heat or neutralization during the formulation process. Evaluating product performance The performance of the poly- urethane solution, Baycusan C 2000, was evaluated along with currently available film-forming polymers. In- vivo SPF and water-resistance were measured in ethanolic sun spray for- mulations. In-vivo SPF test results in Figure 1 demonstrate that the new film-forming polymer, at 2 wt. % active content, per- forms very well in a sunscreen spray formulation. Although the film-form- ing polymer itself does not contain any UV-absorbing components, adding it to a formulation can significantly in- crease the sun protection factor .The SPF values obtained are higher than those reached by the blank formula- tion (without film-forming polymer) or provided by the currently used film- forming polymers at the same usage concentration. Similar to Baycusan C 1000 (film- forming polymer for emulsion-based sunscreen products, INCI: Polyure- thane-34), the new film-forming poly- mer is a selective SPF booster. In-vitro results confirmed that its selective SPF-boosting effect occurs in combi- nation with UV filters that have at least two aromatic groups such as the UVB filters Octocrylene and Ethylhexyl Tria- zone, and with broadband UV filters, COSSMA 4I2015 11 fig. 2: In-vivo water resistance data Static SPF SPF after 2*20 min. immersionVA/Buty Maleate/ Isobornyl Acrylate Copolymer Acrylates/ Octylacrylamide … Baycusan C 2000 INGREDIENTS FOCUS: BODY CARE Martin Krause Business Development Manager EMEA/LATAM – Cosmetics Raw Materials Dr. Sophie Viala Global Head Business Development – Cosmetics Raw Materials Bayer Material Science, Leverkusen, Germany martin.krause@bayer.com sophie.viala@bayer.com www.bayercosmetics.com What makes sunscreen products popular? Ethanol-based sunscreen products – ranging from continuous sprays to pump sprays and gels – offer today’s consumer high performance and convenience in appealing product forms while presenting new formulation challenges. They need to be able to be applied easily and uniformly, withstand water immersion, resist rub-off, and feature pleasing, non-tacky aesthetic properties. such as bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Metho- xyphenyl Triazine (BEMT) and Ben- zophenone-3. Proven water resistance Sunscreens were evaluated for wa- ter resistance and this was conducted in accordance with guidelines estab- lished in December 2005 by Colipa, the European Cosmetics Association (today Cosmetics Europe) on 10 pan- elists. The results of these tests, in Fig- ure 2, indicate that the polymer films maintain integrity after water exposure and allow for the formulation of durable and long-lasting products with extremely pleasant and light skin feel. The SPF values obtained (for the sun- screen formulation with 2 wt. % active content of the new film-forming poly- mer), before and after, immersion are higher than those provided by current- ly used film-forming polymers at the same usage concentration. New polymer technology solves formulation challenges Advanced film-forming technology, as provided by the new film-forming polymer Baycusan C 2000, helps to cre- ate cost-effective ethanol-based prod- ucts that meet both performance re- quirements and consumer prefer- ences. Thus, formulators can create broad- spectrum, high-SPF products that are durable and long-lasting without being tacky or sticky. Additional product information, as well as the authors’ biographies, can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel fig. 1: In vivo SPF data for the formulations with and without Baycusan C 2000 (1) In vivo SPF according ISO 24444: 2010, 5 panelists (2) In vivo SPF according FDA, 5 panelists OCR: Octocrylene, BMDBM: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, BEMT: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazone, HMS: Homosalate, BP3: Benzophenone-3 withour film former with 2 wt.% active Baycusan C 2000 invivoSPFinvivoSPF COS1504_10_Bayer_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 26.03.15 13:06 Seite 11 COS1504_10_Bayer_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 26.03.1513:06 Seite 11