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ePaper created 2015-04-07, 08:37:00 | version 1.37.0
and even one containing silicone oil (Dimethicone, 100cst) (fig. 2). Build-up and curl retention Our ester oil binds to the hair sur- face, even in the presence of high amounts of surfactants in a formula- tion. At the same time, it can be easily and entirely removed from the hair. This means, unlike some silicone oils or cationic surfactants, it doesn’t build up unwanted layers on the hair surface after repeated applications. This was demonstrated in an exper- iment of alternating washing/condi- tioning steps. In this experiment, the curl retention performance of our ester oil remained the same, no matter how many times the steps were repeated. In contrast, the curl retention results of the silicone (Amodimethicone, cetrimonium chloride, trideceth-12) changed over time during repeated washing/conditioning, indicating a sil- icone build-up effect. Argan oil in the rinse-off conditioner had no measura- ble effect on the curl retention. This was probably caused by the loss of Argan oil in the process of washing. In a direct comparison, the perform- ance of our ester oil and the silicone Amodimethicone in a leave-on condi- tioner L045-34ff, in terms of curl reten- tion, revealed no measurable differ- ences. Protection against static electric charge Hair without the protection of the lipid layer tends to be rough on the surface. Adjacent hairs rub against each other and produce a static electric charge. Our ester oil protects the hair against this static flyaway effect. Shad- ow mapping experiments revealed that a leave-on conditioner, formulated with this oil, reduced the volume of flyaway hair markedly in contrast to a placebo conditioner or a conditioner including Argan oil. In comparison with the benchmark silicone Amo- dimethicone, the flyaway effect was similar to our ester oil (fig. 3). Broad variety of natural hair care formulations In our lab, a variety of stable natural and conventional conditioner and shampoo formulations containing this ester oil were developed, e.g. a Caring Shampoo for damaged Hair, Caring Hair Milk – leave on, Natural Hair Butter, Natural soft touch Handsoap, Luxury Shower Gel, Conditioning Lotion for stressed Hair. A selection of the mentioned formulations, as well as additional information, can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel INGREDIENTS FOCUS: BODY CARE Dr. Alexander Thiemann Manager Scientific Affairs Jessica Scholze Formulation and Technology Dipl.-Ing. Manuela Salmina-Petersen Head of Formulation and Technology Dr. Straetmans, Hamburg, Germany info@dr-straetmans.de www.dr-straetmans.de fig. 3: Shadow mapping of hair tresses combed 25 times after a treatment with the leave-on conditioner L045-34ff. The areas of the hair tresses’ shadows are shown Light Hair Shadow Observer Placebo Argan oil Silicone Dermofeel Sensolv COS1504_12_Stratemans_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 26.03.15 13:07 Seite 15 COS1504_12_Stratemans_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 26.03.1513:07 Seite 15