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ePaper created 2015-04-07, 08:37:00 | version 1.37.0
cells and protects them from UV-in- duced stress. The dermal papilla is a reservoir of multi stem cells lineages. Dermal papilla cells are predisposed to grow in colonies in spherical form. However, the number of divisions stem cells in adult tissues can undergo is limited (Hayflick limit) and, as this pool of cells is exhaustible, the life- span of the tissue is limited. Identify- ing and treating dermal skin stem cells has opened the door to the next gener- ation of stem cell cosmetics: protec- tion and vitalization of human dermal stem cells for true regeneration of the dermal matrix. Effects after UV/VIS exposure In an in-vitro system, dermal pro- genitor cells isolated from the dermal papilla were induced to form spheres in a non-adherent culture using a fully de- fined CnT-DP-3D medium. To evaluate the protective ability of PhytoCellTec Nunatak, dermal papilla cells were cul- tured in monolayers and exposed to a broad spectrum light source. After ex- posure, cells were seeded into a non- adherent culture, and sphere formation of the dermal progenitor cells in pri- mary sphere cultures was evaluated. Treating dermal progenitor cells with this active ingredient showed a positive effect on the sphere number of unexposed cultures (+21%). In UV/VIS exposed cultures, the sphere number decreased by 48%. This treatment also helped to protect against irradiation, with the sphere number being 35% higher in irradiated cultures compared to the unprotected control. This indi- cates that the active ingredient en- hances the stem cell characteristics formation and proliferation of dermal progenitor cells in cell cultures and protects them, as well as protecting against the harmful effects of UV and visible light irradiation. Regeneration potential of dermal stem cells Another study evaluated the size of the spheres that were formed. This provided an important indication re- garding the quality of the dermal stem cells. Small spheres (diameter ≤ 50 µm) regroup cells that have al- most lost their capacity to regenerate. Medium spheres (51 µm ≤ diameter ≤ 100 µm) regroup cells with a moder- ate renewal capacity, while large ones (diameter ≥ 100 µm) regroup cells with very good regenerative potential. This test also exposed dermal stem cells to a broad spectrum light source (300 – 800 nm) at 3 J/cm2 . In the control culture, after irradiation, the largest spheres disappeared and reduced the proliferation capacity of the most vital cells. Conversely, in cultures pre-treated with Saponaria pumila stem cell ex- tract, the repartition of the sphere size was almost entirely unaffected by irradiation as the proportion of large spheres remained at the same level. This demonstrates Saponaria pumila stem cells can maintain the renewal potential of the dermal stem cells despite environmental stress. Re-densifying the skin’s matrix Twenty women aged between 44.2 and 59.5 with sun-damaged skin ap- plied either a cream with 0.4% Phyto- CellTec Nunatak or the corresponding placebo twice daily for 28 days to the inner side of their forearms. The densi- ty of their skin (epidermis and dermis) was determined by ultrasonic meas- urements. The ultrasonic wave generated echoes when partially reflected at the boundaries between different tissue structures. The intensity of the reflect- ed echoes can be evaluated and visual- ized in a colour image. The collagen and elastic fiber structure of an intact dermis yields many reflections that are visible as bright colours on the ultra- sonographic image. However, disrupting this regular ar- chitecture leads to weaker reflections and dark patches, as can be seen in the ultrasonographic images at Day 0. These subepidermal low-echogenic bands are commonly found in aged and photo-damaged skin. Applying the active ingredient over 4 weeks re-den- sified the dermis by almost 10% com- pared to initial conditions. Enhanced dermal stem cell activity Fibroblast cells are the most promi- nent cell type in the dermis and are re- sponsible for the continuous produc- tion of elastin and collagen. These two important structural components build up the extracellular matrix, giv- ing the skin its properties of elasticity and tensile strength. Fibroblasts have limited life expectancy and, with age, become less active and decrease in number. Consequently, senescent fi- broblasts are no longer replaced by new ones and the skin loses its elastic- ity and firmness due to the drop in elastin and collagen production. The recently discovered human dermal stem cells were found to self-renew and differentiate into dermal cell types like fibroblasts. Analyzing their stem cell character- istics showed that the extract of Saponaria pumila stem cells effective- ly promotes the activity of dermal stem cells and protects them from UV-in- duced stress. The first active ingredient that is based on the rare flower that survived the last Ice Age in the Alps is PhytoCellTec Nunatak. Ultrasono- graphic images have shown that these plant stem cells increase the density of the dermal tissue, leading to a reduc- tion of subepidermal low-echogenic bands that are found in aged and pho- to-damaged skin. Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel PRODUCTION INGREDIENTS 40 COSSMA 4I2015 photo:Mibelle Beata Hurst Head of Marketing Mibelle Biochemistry Buchs, Switzerland beata.hurst@mibellegroup.com www.mibellebiochemistry.com The dermal papilla as a niche of dermal precursor cells COS1504_38_Mibelle_GB_COS1409_30_Balluff_D 26.03.15 13:11 Seite 40 COS1504_38_Mibelle_GB_COS1409_30_Balluff_D 26.03.1513:11 Seite 40