Cossma1611_GB

to melanin synthesis. To stop colouration of the skin, actives should work to inhibit one or more of the path- ways to melanin production, such as: • preventing and/or neutralising reactive oxidants • inhibiting tyrosinase activity • inhibiting melanocyte dendricity • blocking the transfer of melanosomes to keratino- cytes There are multiple whitening and brightening actives now available; here, the ones that work on either the whole complexion or specific age spots should be cho- sen, depending on the chosen development and/or the target market needs. If addressing this mechanism of skin ageing with the help of these actives, products should be promoted using claims such as: • ‘visibly brightens the complexion by xx% within 28/56 days’; • or could be more generalised such as, ‘visibly evens the skin complexion’; • or very specific such as, ‘visibly lightens the appear- ance of age spots by xx% within yy days’ The in vivo results should be reviewed carefully and visible/appearance-based claims should only be made in accordance with the in vivo results obtained; if stat- ing a % improvement or change, it is important to specify the time frame over which this change was at- tained. Helping consumers to age gracefully No single anti-ageing active is going to solve all con- sumer concerns; so it is relevant to: • carefully select the actives with the right target of action to match product claims • hold suitable in vivo evidence to support all claims made • translate the physiological results obtained to suita- ble cosmetic claims • provide the right claims to guide consumers in their product selection • put key actives in a suitable delivery base to ensure optimum activity. These are the key mechanisms that contribute to the visible effects of ageing along with multiple ways to correct these mechanisms. It is important to focus on targeting the right mechanism with the right actives and the right claims to make consumers happier with that mirror on the wall, regardless of their age. □ *IPCS, the Institute of Personal Care Science, provides distance and on-site training in cosmetic formulation, brand management and regulatory affairs as well as providing formulation, product development and regulatory consulting services. ance ed). teri- unc- ac- with ture ults. t of can rati- tour it is iate ong used on on- sig- the and am- ccu- s of way mes UV and s is dant to stur- sing in- anti- ably re- an- der- zer, Lipo- sing eing ucts aims the erial rrier fits’ ollu- es’ also ways INGREDIENTS www.cossma.com l 23 a.com Peptide materials: no need to revert to Botox REVERSKIN® Entknittert die Haut Increase in the epidermis thickness and juvenile structuration, clearly visible after application of REVERSKIN® Control 35 days REVERSKIN® 35 days www.greentechgmbh.de Schnell wirksamer Anti Falten Wirkstoff, reich an Phytoecdysterolen, der das Mikrorelief junger Haut in 4 Wochen wieder zurückbringt. Weitere Innovationen zu den Themen: Anti-Pollution Zellenergie 24h De Luxe Moisturizer Nachhaltige Peelingkörper UV Stammzellenschutz Pub-REVERSKIN-103X297-2016-ALLEMAGNE.indd 1 17/02/16 17:10 COS1611_20_BCarli_Anti-Age.indd 23 27.10.16 09:24 Pub-REVERSKIN-103X297-2016-ALLEMAGNE.indd 117/02/1617:10 COS1611_20_BCarli_Anti-Age.indd 2327.10.1609:24

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