Cossma1611_GB

photos: Good Luz, Skazka Grez (syringe), Shutterstock.com that may already be present. However, it is not necessary to re- vert to injections for results; there are now some great peptide mate- rials in this area which work to: • destabilise the normal muscu- lar contraction ‘SNARE’ com- plex and/or • interfere with SNAP-25 and/or • inhibit glutamate release to avoid calcium ion release into the neuron to prevent contrac- tions occurring. Some key actives that help in one or more of these areas include Lipotec’s active ingredients Ar- gireline and Snap-8 and DSM’s Syn-Ake. If addressing this mech- anism of skin ageing with the help of this sort of actives, prod- ucts should be promoted using claims such as ‘visibly reduces deep wrinkles/expression lines’ or ‘smooths the appearance of the skin’. Depending on the active and evidence provided, the visi- ble reduced depth of wrinkles over a specified time period may also be quoted. Improving skin suppleness Suppleness is another way to de- scribe how ‘full’, ‘plump’ or even ‘dewy’ the skin looks. Supple skin relies on a relatively high content of the following three substances in the dermis: • collagen provides visible ‘full- ness’ • elastin provides elasticity to hold the skin in place after it is stretched or contorted (typi- cally through muscular con- tractions) • hyaluronic acid provides the appearance of ‘volume’ to the skin All three substances decrease with age due to a reduced synthe- sis of collagen, elastin and hyalu- W hile the theory of exact- ly how and why cells age and die as we grow older may vary, the visible re- sults remain the same: lines form and deepen, skin becomes thin- ner and starts to sag, and uneven skin tones develop. Luckily, with the right actives formulated into good delivery bases, these visible effects can be largely halted and in many cases, reversed. Consumers want to get the best results from the products they purchase, but to make sure this happens, it is important to pro- mote the right anti-ageing result for the actives selected, specific to their individual age-related concerns. What happens within the epider- mis and dermis as the skin ages and what visible effect does this have on the skin? And most im- portantly, what sort of actives can best address and correct these concerns, with appropriate claims, in relation to their activity? Reducing expression lines Repeated facial movements and muscular contractions will lead to fine lines, and eventually, deeper wrinkles. The expressions and facial movements made throughout our youth starts to catch up with us in our 30s – usu- ally as temporary fine lines at first, and then as progressively deeper and more lasting wrin- kles. If the facial movements can be reduced or stopped, the num- ber and depth of fine lines (and wrinkles) that would otherwise start and/or deepen over time can be reduced. The concept of inject- able products such as Botox do exactly this: they stop the muscu- lar contractions to prevent forma- tion of lines and lessen the lines Stopping the muscular contractions prevents the formation of lines SKIN AGEING The theories of how and why cells age vary INGREDIENTS www.cossma.com l 21 “Targeting the right mechanism with the right actives” COS1611_20_BCarli_Anti-Age.indd 21 27.10.16 09:24 COS1611_20_BCarli_Anti-Age.indd 2127.10.1609:24

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