Cossma1611_GB

to m activ way • p • in • in • b c The now who sen, targ skin shou • ‘v 2 • o th • o a The visib in a ing spec tain Hel No sum • c a • h m • tr b • p p • p o The visib corr targ and that *IPCS, cosme formu comparison to what gravity does to skin over time. Visible sagging is most noticeable beyond the mid-40s, and most noticeably affects the eyelids and jaw line. As skin ages, the assembly of collagen and elastin starts to be affected, which impacts the skin’s natural firmness and resistance to gravitational effects. In order to effectively firm the skin, actives need to: • lift and reshape the contours of the face • restructure the dermis; in par- ticular: restore the correct assembly to collagen and elastin either by boosting elastin and colla- gen synthesis and/or activating and increasing key proteins within the dermal structure to effectively hold elastin and collagen in place. Some key actives that help in one or more of these areas include Gattefossé’s Gatuline Lifting, Lipotec’s Uplevity and DSM’s Syn-Hycan. If addressing this mechanism of skin ageing using these types of actives, products should be promoted using claims such as, ‘visibly firms/lifts/re- shapes the facial contour by xx% within yy days’ (in accordance with the in vivo results obtained). ‘Instant’ lift effect active materi- als can also be used in conjunc- tion with the restructuring ac- tives. Using materials with activity on the dermal structure will provide more lasting results. However, the instant result of film forming-tenser actives can give consumers more rapid grati- fication while the true contour correction takes place. Thus, it is important to use appropriate claims for the instant and/or long term effects of the materials used in the formulation. Evening out the complexion Daily UV and free radical on- slaughts not only contribute sig- nificantly to visible ageing of the skin by affecting collagen and elastin, not to mention DNA dam- age, but can also lead to the accu- mulation of darkened areas of skin and age spots. The best way to combat these changes comes in the form of products with UV agents present; a very easy and everyday way to achieve this is by adding UV filters, antioxidant and anti-pollution actives to make-up products. Daily moistur- isers can also be created using suitable anti-pollution active in- gredients, naturally high in anti- oxidant activity and preferably with some UV protective or re- storative action. Some actives with proven an- ti-pollution activity include Seder- ma’s Citystem, IBR’s Pristinizer, Mibelle’s Detoxophane and Lipo- tec’s Pollushield. If addressing this mechanism of skin ageing with these actives, products should be promoted using claims such as (in accordance with the in vivo results of the raw material selected): • ‘provides a protective barrier against pollution’ • ‘provides antioxidant benefits’ • ‘protects skin against pollu- tion-induced visible changes’ The exposure to UV light will also stimulate one or more pathways ronic acid and higher degradation through enzymes such as colla- genase, elastase and hyaluroni- dase. If the production of these enzymes is slowed and/or the synthesis of these three key sub- stances is boosted, then the signs of ageing can be halted and even reversed by making the skin ap- pear fuller with more volume. The more supple the skin, the shallower the wrinkles and skin folds will appear, and the faster skin is restored to a pre-expres- sion state. To increase supple- ness, active materials have to be selected that will: • rebuild the dermal structure • boost collagen synthesis and/ or reduce activity of colla- genase • boost elastin synthesis and/or reduce activity of elastase • boost hyaluronic acid synthe- sis and/or reduce activity of hyaluronidase • restore dermal/epidermal communication • reduce trans-epidermal water loss • boost skin thickness through lasting hydration. There are multiple active materi- als that work on one or more of these mechanisms. Choosing ac- tives with multi-functional bene- fits and/or a strong marketing story helps to boost strong claims in the marketplace. However, claims cannot be made about the physiological effects of an active (e.g. boosting synthesis or reduc- ing activity of enzymes), but in- stead need to be ‘visible’ or ‘ap- pearance’-based. Because such claims can be rather general, us- ing actives with clinical data to support ‘xx% visibly more supple skin in yy days’ can help boost a good marketing story, as can the use of exotic or revolutionary ac- tives to help provide products with a point of difference in the marketplace. Re-firm sagging skin Correcting the first two mecha- nisms of ageing can be easier in No single anti-age- ing active will solve all consumer con- cerns COLLAGE & COp- Supple skin relies on a high content of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid Some great peptides work comparably to injectable products INGREDIENTS 22 l COSSMA 11 I 2016 www.cossma.com Pep no COS1611_20_BCarli_Anti-Age.indd 22 27.10.16 09:24 COS1611_20_BCarli_Anti-Age.indd 2227.10.1609:24

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