Cossma1611_GB

photos: Sederma Cos- nter- first mon- the two eats pro- lids, and s. cul- ant. per- a of am- pro- the ca- ging n To develop the ingredient, differ- ent types of market research were analysed in order to get consumer insights about pollution and their expectations regarding anti-pol- lution for skin care. Survey re- sults showed that consumers per- ceived pollution as an invisible enemy which is present every- where. From a cosmetic point of view, they see pollution as the ac- cumulation of dirt on the skin’s surface leading to clogged pores, excessive sebum, acne and une- ven skin tone. They are also strongly conscious that pollution can accelerate skin ageing. There are several methods to prove anti-pollution properties, most of which are performed in vitro. The challenge for an active pollution-fighting ingredient is to connect these tests to visible re- sults and to find a significant in vivo testing protocol. In the de- velopment of Citystem, new in vitro methods were combined and the clinical studies performed obtained convincing results. To ensure that the in vivo efficacy studies were performed under realistic conditions, it was decid- ed to work with two panels both living in polluted cities. The first study was dedicated to the analysis of comedones, as blackheads are the result of se- bum oxidation. Pollution increas- es sebum production and plays a role in the oxidation process. At T0, the amount of comedones and sebum was analysed; the same test protocol was repeated four weeks later, after the appli- cation of a cream containing 2% Citystem on 40 male and female volunteers mean age 44 (21-67) twice daily. A pre-test identified that sebum is reproduced and comedones with blackheads are reformed in less than four weeks. The antioxidative and anti-pollu- tion properties of the active ingre- dient could then be confirmed against the pre-test results. The neck skin (confirmed by clinical studies). Another interesting natural active is Sebuless. This extract, obtained by cell culture of the common li- lac, shows sebum-regulating and antimicrobial properties. On oily and acne-prone skin, it helps to minimise inflammation and sub- sequent blemishes. Natural pollution defence New in the product range is Citystem a plant derived active designed and developed to fulfil the increasing need to fight against both visible and invisible pollution damage to the skin. People nowadays are aware that UV radiation and cigarette smoke lead to premature ageing. There is an increasing awareness of the harmful effects of pollution not only for our respiratory system but also for our skin. Particles and molecules in the air, such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocar- bons (PAHs) and volatile organic compounds (VOCs), induce di- rectly or indirectly the production of free radicals and oxidative stress. This leads to inflammation and causes the extracellular ma- trix in the skin to degrade. Visible results are wrinkle appearance, loss of elasticity and irregular skin grain and tone. Can pollution accelerate skin ageing? A growing demand for “green cosme- ceuticals” POLLUTION RESULTS: •wrinkles •loss of elasticity •irregular skin grain and tone GO FUTURE: COSMECEUTICALS www.cossma.com l 13 a.com The ingredient, based on marrubium vul- gare, fights pollution damage to the skin – ADVERTISEMENT – COS1611_12_Sederma_Citysystem.indd 13 27.10.16 15:49 COS1611_12_Sederma_Citysystem.indd 1327.10.1615:49

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