Cossma1607-08_GB

photos and figures: ProDerm cigarette-smoke compounds, and in particular of nicotine. Nicotine is an agonist of acetylcholine (ACh) and may induce come- dogenesis (the formation of comedones) via the stimulation of the ACh nicotinic receptor of epidermal keratinocytes. Tobac- co smoking has been associated with some skin cancers. Protection strategies It is impossible to completely avoid environmental pollution. However, the skin can be protect- ed in order to help minimise the effects of pollution on the skin. Such protection strategies include moisturisers with barrier proper- ties and/or formulated with free-radical scavenging proper- ties; sunscreens to protect the skin from UV damage and those which also include products to protect against other irradiation sources; vitamin-based nutritional supple- ments to counteract the effects of free-radical skin damage; good quality skin cleansing systems; and quality drinking water. Whilst protection strategies for the skin against environmental pollution make good sense, their effectiveness in the marketplace requires robust evidence to sup- port developing claims for such cosmetic products. A number of both in-vitro ex-vivo methods are available to demonstrate antioxi- dant activity of pollution-treated skin models and explants. How- ever, human studies are required in order to prove real consumer benefit(s) in terms of skin barrier protection and anti-oxidative damage. This is easily achieved by exposing skin with combus- tion smoke and measuring the ­ degree of lipid and/or protein peroxidation in the stratum cor- neum when the skin is treated with test products. Assessment of lipid peroxidation in cosmetics Our company has developed a new clinical method to assess pollution-generated lipid peroxi- dation and its prevention and/or treatment by cosmetic products in human volunteers. The skin of the backs of human volunteers is treated with the product under test, exposed to smoke and then peroxidation of human sebum is assessed. Similarly, application on the volar forearm facilitates assessing the effects on skin bar- rier lipids. All assessments are performed using cigarette smoke as the pollutant model. The ra- tionale for using cigarette smoke as the pollution source is that many societies still accept smok- ing as a norm (though this is lim- ited); most humans are in contact with varying degrees of cigarette smoke; in comparison to other gaseous pollutants, cigarette smoke is easily handled in the laboratory; other smoke pollut- ants including diesel are classed as unethical in terms of their use as models in clinical studies be- cause of their toxicity; and ciga- rette smoke contains all the im- portant classes of documented indoor and outdoor pollutants. Furthermore, data derived from this type of study should correlate well with any in-vitro or ex-vivo findings, and add to the weight of evidence that is required to sub- stantiate cosmetic claims. Smoke increases levels of SQOOH and MDA The skin produces sebum, and it is these sebum lipids which are in stances, such as catechol, known to interact with the skin. Reactive oxidants as well as free radicals from cigarette smoke are closely associated with oxidative stress and secondary oxidative events, such as lipid peroxidation. Chemical substances from ciga- rette smoke will affect skin barri- er integrity, degeneration of con- nective tissue in the skin, and increase of matrix metallopro- teinases (MMP-1, MMP-3) and is correlated with periorbital wrin- kling. Cigarette smoke is associat- ed with psoriasis, the effects of which could be mediated by the ROS and in particular by the dis- turbed balance of oxidants and antioxidants, indicated with low levels of vitamin C and gluta­ thione, and high levels of super- oxide dismutase and malondial- dehyde in cutaneous tissues. A higher prevalence of acne among smokers and a correlation between the severity of acne and the number of smoked cigarettes has also been reported. Although the correlation between acne and smoking remains controversial, there is a hyperkeratising effect of Cigarette smoking has been associated with skin ageing SKIN AGEING Combining smok- ing and sun expo- sure may have a synergistic effect on the skin ageing pro- cesses first the men ciga crea drop alde barr are with Incr been hoo con stre good enzy mat goo oxid of a Cha Whi forw key ing the duc cons and smo ­ con “ox cha ­ dev smo whi pres Fig. 1: The smoke suction device’s pump produces negative pressure and transports smoke to the skin Fig. 2: Representative example of smoke applied to the skin. Figur SPOTLIGHT: ANTI-POLLUTION 44  l  COSSMA 7–8 I 2016 DOWNLOADS Additional information at www.cossma.com/qr00123 Your access codes for July/August: User name: cossma8 Password: nature COS1607_42_Proderm_Antipol.indd 44 26.07.16 10:39 COS1607_42_Proderm_Antipol.indd 4426.07.1610:39

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