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photos: Spline x, Tristan tan, Tarapong Srichaiyos, 5, Shutterstock.com photo: Yuri2010, Shutterstock.com mous as ginseng and is mainly used by Asian cosmetic brands such as SK-II Signs Nourishing Cream and In- oherb Rhodiola Whitening Essence. Angelica sinensis: remedy for women Angelica sinensis3 mainly grows in the Gansu, Yunnan, Sichuan and Shaanxi provinces of China. It is one of the most popular traditional Chi- nese herbal medicines. According to Materia Medica, Angelica sinensis is a special remedy for women. It stim- ulates the blood regulation and can be used to help cure many symptoms of menstrual complaints, pregnancy and diseases. Angelica sinensis is one of the most popular ingredients for cosmetics in China and in han- bang cosmetics. It is often used in products with cleansing, whitening and moisturising properties, for ex- ample Yue Sai (a Chinese brand ac- quired by L’Oréal) Whitening Cream and Sulwhasoo Night Mask (a prom- inent hanbang cosmetic brand from Korea). In addition to this selection of exam- ples, there are many types of herbs from TCM which are widely used in cosmetics. Due to the popularity of TCM, consumers in China and other East Asian countries are already fa- miliar with the functionalities of cer- tain herbs as a remedy. This pro- vides these TCM-based herbal cosmetics with strong selling points. The current trend in terms of con- suming goods is “back to the roots and back to nature” in China. Many local brands are using their knowl- edge in this particular field as an ad- vantage to compete with imported brands. The most successful exam- ples are Herborist and Inoherb from Shanghai. A few international brands such as Origins, Lancôme, and Shiseido are also selling prod- ucts with Chinese herbal ingredi- ents. We think the time has now come for a more open-minded ap- proach in cosmetics development. Thus, product lines containing TCM herbs might be a smart way to reach out to Asian consumers more effec- tively. □ 1 人参 (in Chinese “Ren Shen”) 2 红景天 (in Chinese “Hong Jing Tian”) 3 当归 (in Chinese “Dang Gui”) Materia Medica; hanbang cosmetics are currently a trend, achieving op- timal functionality by perfectly mix- ing various Chinese herbs. Because of the theory of inner health impacting outer beauty, many herbs used in modern herbal cosmetics were initially used as a medicine or tonic. These are three examples: Skin brightening ginseng Ginseng1, also called the “king of the herbs”, mainly grows in Northeast China, Korea, Russia and Japan. In traditional Chinese herbal medicine, ginseng is a tonic with wide applica- tion and effects against fatigue, low immunity, diabetes, depression, high blood pressure, etc. Therefore, ginseng is also a symbol of longevity in China and other East Asian coun- tries. Both in Asia and Europe, there are supplements on the market for internal application. Due to its heal- ing effects yet mild features, ginseng is often used as a cosmetic ingredi- ent with antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and anti-dark spot properties. It moisturises, refreshes and firms the skin, as well as improving bright- ness. As the Asian beauty ideal is a spotless, porcelain-like skin, ginseng is popular in cosmetics from Korea, China and Japan. In recent years, more international brands have be- come aware of the positive features of ginseng and have developed their own ginseng product lines, for ex- ample Origins with their GinZing line. Anti-oxidative Rhodiola rosea Rhodiola rosea2 grows in a cold cli- mate at an altitude of 1,800 to 2,500 meters, for example in Tibet, Nepal and Northeast China. Therefore it is a very resistant and adaptable plant. It is recognized as Chinese medicine and was quoted in many works of TCM, some of which were written more than 2,000 years ago. Rhodiola rosea is also widely used in cosmet- ics. As it grows in a rough climate with resilient features, cosmetic products with this herb are sup- posed to be antioxidative and can help the skin regain its natural im- munity. The plant is almost as fa- ine, ered on his ality isite ord- cine h in uty. hed al- our- adi- n as the the Ginseng (left), Rhodiola rosea (top) and Angelica sinensis (right) GO FUTURE: NATURAL COSMETICS www.cossma.com  l  21 COS1607_20_GraefeChinese.indd 21 25.07.16 15:34 COS1607_20_GraefeChinese.indd 2125.07.1615:34

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