Cossma 7-8/2013

T he first plastic packagings using biopolymers are now being de- veloped or are already on the market. These are, for example bottles, lipstick tubes, mascara caps, and pow- der packages for eye shadow or com- pact powder. Natural cosmetics – what is allowed? Ecocert approved packaging must contain no polyvinylchloride (PVC) and no polystyrene (PS). The NaTrue label permits no halogenated plastics as packaging and the BDIH-Cosmos stan- dard permits no PVC or other chlori- nated plastics, no PS and no materials coming from genetically modified organisms (GMOs). The Whole Foods Market in the US, a strongly biologically-oriented retail chain, will not accept, amongst other things, PVC, polyurethane (PU), PS, polycarbonate (PC), or ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA), in packaging material. Preferred packaging materials are recyclates, or biobased materials which can be composted after use. The biobased materials in question may not contain any substances produced using GMOs. The bioplastics market in figures The global bioplastics market, which covers all bioplastics, including packaging, reached about 1.2 million tonnes in 2011. This currently repre- sents less than 1 percent of the total global plastics market (about 280 mil- lion tonnes)1 . The European bioplas- tics association expects that by 2016 the market will have increased by a factor of five to just about 6 million tonnes. This anticipated growth can largely be attributed to partially biobased polyethylene terephthalate (PET). The group of biobased, non- biodegradable bioplastics will, accord- ing to current forecasts, also exhibit strong growth2 . However, the share of Europe and the US in the global capac- ity will probably decrease in favour of the Far East and South America3 . FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS PACKAGING How sustainable is product packaging? The concept of sustainability is the subject of an ongoing debate. The nu- merous definitions already put forward and in use all centre on the same ob- jective: “ensuring that trade and indus- try consider the wellbeing of future generations”. This means, for example conserving resources in the best possi- ble manner. An approach to identifying the level of sustainability of packaging can for instance be to check whether the plas- tic used is biobased, e.g. contains re- newable raw materials, if it is made us- ing biodegradable or recyclable mate- rials, or if it is at least partially made from recycled material (Post Consumer Recycled, PCR). An additional criterion is that the packaging is produced in an economi- cal, environmentally friendly and so- cially sustainable way. One can refuse to accept certain types of packaging, for example unnecessary outer packag- ing, or show a preference for packaging that can be refilled or re-used. Biopolymers are not the same as bioplastics A biopolymer is a biogenic macro- molecule, whereas a bioplastic is in general produced from a biopolymer and certain additives. Another defini- tion4 of a biopolymer is as follows: a) consists of biobased (renewable) resources and/or b) is biodegradable In the following article the term biopolymer refers to biobased poly- mers, regardless of whether or not they are biodegradable. A biopolymer is obtained from renew- able resources. These may be of plant origin such as starch (maize, sugar- cane, potatoes) or cellulose/lignocel- Packaging for natural cosmetics Biopolymers – advan- tages and disadvantages photo:Amalia19,Shutterstock.com These days more and more consumers expect not only that natural products themselves are organic and meet the demands of sustainability, but that this should also apply to the packaging. One approach here, with regard to plastic packaging, is the use of biopolymers as packaging material for natural cosmetics. Dr. Andrea Kühn of Wala Heilmittel, the producers of Dr.-Hauschka Skin Care, explains some key points that should be noted when using biopolymers for pack- aging natural cosmetics. A very diverse problem for natural cosmetics – sustainable packaging COS1307-8_22_Wala_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 30.07.13 10:32 Seite 22

Cossma 7-8/2013

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