Cossma 7-8/2013

detection of the skin moisture level. Glycerine was used as the positive control in all test studies. In each of the single clinical studies ten adult female test persons with healthy skin, of different ages and with different skin types (normal skin and dry skin) took part. The test persons were instructed to apply the test for- mulation (cosmetic emulsion or show- er gel) daily on pre-determined skin areas (forearm) during an application period of two weeks. It was also not al- lowed for them to use any other skin care product on these specific areas during the test period. Before starting the study, the skin hydration level of the test persons was measured under controlled conditions (22°C, 60% relative humidity, 45 min- utes of acclimatisation) with a Cor- neometer. After two weeks of applica- tion, the measurement was repeated. Natural moisturisers for leave-on products As expected, the untreated skin area showed no considerable change in moisture level within two weeks. On the areas treated with the emulsions, all test persons showed an increased level of skin moisture (fig. 1). Formula- tion A without any moisturiser showed an increase in moisture content of 15%, achieved by an occlusive effect of the cosmetic oils in the formulation. Also for formulation C with glucono- delta-lactone an increase of 25% in moisture content was observed. Sodi- um lactate 60% aqueous solution in moisturiser D contributed to an im- provement of the moisture content of 22%. Nearly the same level of moistur- isation could be achieved with a mix- ture of sodium gluconate and sodium lactate 60% aqueous solution. The ref- erence, glycerine showed an increase of the moisture content of 26%. In another in vivo study we com- pared the moisturising properties of erythritol vs. glycerine. Erythritol showed an increase in skin moisture content of 27% after two weeks of daily application, which exceeded the in- crease of glycerine. Natural moisturisers for rinse-off products Fig. 2 shows the difference in skin moisture content (in %) before and af- ter a two week daily use of the rinse-off COSSMA 7-8I2013 19 Fig. 2: Relative improvement of skin hydration after two weeks of application of a shower gel with and without 5% (w/w) moisturising ingredients formulation with moisturising ingredi- ents. With the exception of the nega- tive control, all formulations showed an improvement in the skin moisture content. For the negative control, the slight decrease of skin moisture con- tent by 2.5% indicates a drying out of the skin after 2 weeks of daily use. For the positive control (5% glycerine), an increase of the skin moisture content by 4% was observed. The formulation with 5% sodium lactate showed an improvement of 6.3%. The most significant improvement in moisture content after the applica- tion period was observed for formula- tions containing 5% potassium lactate, erythritol or calcium lactate gluconate: the increase after two weeks of applica- tion was 9.0%, 9.2% and 10.9% respec- tively. These are significant improve- ments versus control, and account for a healthy increase of between 125% and 170%. None of the rinse-off formulations showed any negative impact as none of the participants reported undesirable side effects during or after the test period. Promising alternatives to glycerine Several salts of alpha and poly hy- dyroxy organic acids and polyols have been tested in vivo regarding their abil- ity to increase the skin moisture con- tent for leave-on and rinse-off prod- ucts. For leave-on products, glucono- delta-lactone, sodium lactate, as well as erythritol showed a performance equal or better to the benchmark glyc- erine. These natural moisturising solu- tions offer advantages for the skin feel. For rinse-off products, sodium lactate, Dr. Dirk Lenz, Product Group Manager Gluconates Frithjof Raab, Technical Service Manager Lactics Oliver Seelig, Technical Service Manager Gluconates Jungbunzlauer International AG, Basel, Switzerland Stefan Wiemer, Proj. Manager Application Technology Jungbunzlauer Ladenburg GmbH, Ladenburg, Germany dirk.lenz@jungbunzlauer.com, frithjof.raab@jungbunzlauer.com, oliver.seelig@jungbunzlauer.com, stefan.wiemer@jungbunzlauer.com www.jungbunzlauer.com potassium lactate, erythritol as well as calcium lactate gluconate showed a performance superior to glycerine. The lactates as natural constituents of the NMF are a promising alternative to glycerine especially for rinse-off products with a high frequency of use because of their high skin compatibi- lity. Erythritol and calcium lactate glu- conate were the top performers in the in vivo studies for rinse-off products, and should be considered for the for- mulation of premium products. In addition to the proven perform- ance in the in vivo studies, all the in- gredients are produced by a natural fermentation process with non-GM strains from renewable and non-GM carbohydrates. The natural moisturising ingredi- ents are listed as Ecocert as well as COSMOS approved ingredients and can be included in natural/organic product ranges with the aim of obtain- ing Ecocert/COSMOS certification. Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet box Improvementofskinmoisture[%] Control 0% Glycerine 5% Sodium Lactate 5% Sodium Gluconate 5% Potassium Lactate 5% Erythritol 5% Calcium Lactate Gluconate 5% Sodium Lactate/ Sodium Gluconate 2.5%/2.5% Additional information at www.cossma.com/download or you can just scan the QR code! 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Cossma 7-8/2013

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