Cossma 7-8/2013

They possess complementary activi- ties both in the dermis and the epider- mis to make formulations effective. Could you describe briefly to what extent Glutamat surfactants are suit- able for a sustainable and mild skin cleansing formulation? Dr. Martin Husmann, Schill & Seilacher: Gluta- mate surfactants such as Perlastan SC 25 NKW will leave the skin’s barrier function virtually unaltered for a long period, despite intensive washing. Even surfactants that are known to dry out the skin can be made very much milder with this amino-acid based sur- factant. The fine-pored, elastic and very moist foam produces a silky skin feel after washing when lightly rubbed. In combination with non-ionic sur- factants, which help reduce the critical micell build-up, the best cleansing power and efficacy is achieved. What ingredients do you offer for UV protection? Sung-Ho Lee, Sunjin: TX-80 has good compati- bility in combination with Avobenzone (BMDBM) as it is alumina free, it can be easily dispersed and has a high SPF efficacy. The UVB protection with the T-80 series is comparable with 15nm TiO2 while its UVA protection is better than 40nm ZnO. This aluminia- free TiO2 is Ecocert and NaTrue con- form and has good photo-stability. Due to its spherical particle shape Sunsil Tin50 provides a very light tex- ture, a soft-touch effect and good transparency. It is Ecocert approved and is a good SPF booster when com- bined with other UV filters. Hybrid S, Hybrid EHT and Hybrid Talc are water dispersible UVA filters, providing a global PA+++ solution, a very light tex- ture, improved photo-stability and minimized skin irritation. We also offer non-nano Ecocert ZnO Dispersion. What are the advantages of amino- acid based surfactants in cleansing for- mulations? Evelyn Su, Sino Lion: They provide a luxurious user experience with soft, silky and smooth after- feel. They are very mild COSSMA 7-8I2013 17 cant scale with 100 and also with 49 volunteer subjects. If one stimulates the release of β-defensins, the skin’s own defence against bacteria, inflam- mation can be tackled in an elegant way. To achieve this condition an extract of wild mint Peumus Boldus (Betapur) is very effective. A study with 50 volunteers showed an improvement in the complexion and a reduction in red spots. What are the latest developments at Alfa Chemicals? Jennifer Cargill, Alfa Chemicals: The most in- novative formulation us- ing Sucragel is the gel-to- milk concept. It can gel any oily ingredient into a stable micro- emulsion which will instantly emulsify on contact with water. This oily gel can be used to produce a number of differ- ent products from cleansers to mas- sage gels. Sucramulse is an all-in-one emulsifier for all oil-in-water emul- sions. It forms a lamellar structure that produces stable creams and lotions with a luxurious texture as well as pro- viding 24-hour hydration for the skin. Sucrathix is a new, natural, water thick- ener which stabilises the aqueous phase due to the electrostatic repul- sions between the carboxyl groups on the cellulose gum. Consequently, it will prevent creaming, flocculation and sedimentation in an emulsion. The new range of Sucrabases are stable mi- cro-emulsions made with Sucragel and a single oil. Additional ingredients can simply be stirred into these micro- emulsions to produce a variety of fin- ished products and textures without the need for any heat or complicated equipment. They can be used to form virtually any type of cosmetic product –from cleansers to masks, baby ranges and in hair care, massage gels and scrubs, and even in make up. The presentation, as well as photos of the event, can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel) thanks to their intrinsic compatibility with skin and hair. They provide reli- able safety thanks to there being no impurities, are sulphate-free and eco- friendly due to their great biodegrad- ability. As no organic solvents are in- volved in the manufacturing process there are hardly any emissions. Our Glycinate-based surfactants are self- preserving and preservative-free. The foaming properties of amino-acid- based surfactants deliver a high-end product image as they generate dense, small, elastic and creamy bubbles while the conventional sulphate-based surfactants produce the loose, large and flashy bubbles and thus a low-end product image. What are the advantges of Alina APS, Alina AMD and Alina AFH? Peter Bauer, Alina: All three products have a multifunctional activity. Whilst APS is charac- terised mainly by its moisturising activity with AMD the per- fuming is a major feature, and with AFH sebum control is the main proper- ty. All three products have a strong an- timicrobial action, and AFH also works against dandruff. What type of anti-spot/anti-pimple action is offered by the following ac- tives: Mat-XS, Betapur, X-Pressin C and Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD? Dr. Torsten Clarius, BASF: To combat excess sebum production it is important to suppress the conversion of testos- terone into dihydrotestosterone by 5-α-reductase type 1. Mat-XS Clinical has shown this to be the most effective inhibitor out of more than 100 sub- stances tested. The action was proven in clinical studies on 90 volunteers in Bordeaux and in Bangkok. Product ranges with an action against impure skin can be formulated in so many dif- ferent ways that one is not restricted to combatting one problem. Particularly mild Keratolytics like Beta-Hydroxyde ACSD, a product blend of salicylic acid and polysaccharides from acacias, or X-Pressin C based on papain, can help to open the pores and allow the sebum a better freer flow. Here too we have demonsrated the improvement in the condition of impure skin on a signifi- INGREDIENTS FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS Additional information at www.cossma.com/download or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for August: User name: cossma8 Password: nature DownloadsDownloads COS1307-8_16_Impag_GB_COS1307-8_12_Mani_D 26.07.13 11:28 Seite 17

Cossma 7-8/2013

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