Cossma 7-8/2013

Which are Cobiosa’s most interest- ing Bio-trade-based Peruvian ingredi- ents? Alberto Thiebaut, Co- biosa: Our actives are based on the traditional Inca medicinal system. In- ca Omega Oil, also avail- able as non-hydrogenated butter, is a cold pressed oil extracted from Plukenetia Volubilis with a high, bal- anced concentration of botanical omega 3, 6 and 9 and of natural vita- min E. It is suitable for sensitive, atopic and dry skins, but also to help treat split ends and broken hair. Dragon’s Blood also, available in wax form for the care of cracked lips, is a resin from Croton Lechleri. It is a powerful anti- oxidant with a wound-healing action. Radiancyl, an extract from the root of Lepidium Meyenii, commonly known as Maca, is rich in amino acids, vita- mins, and mineral nutrients required to drive many cellular functions in the body. It improves vitality and the thick- ness of the hair. Which are the latest research results from MicroSilver BG of interest to the cosmetics industry? Dr. Marcel Langenauer, BioEpiderm: This micron sized high purity natural silver, that thanks to its sponge-like structure, has a very extensive surface area, is free of nano-particles. It acts only on the out- er surface, without penetrating, but is nevertheless highly efficacious. Whilst the use of silver salts or nano-silver of- ten gives rise to safety questions the use of MicroSilver can resolve formula- tion problems and is easy to integrate. Its broad range of activity against vari- ous bacteria has been proven in vitro. The anti-bacterial action in relation to the concentration level has also been shown in vitro. Its good efficacy in car- ing for atopic skin and acne has also been demonstrated, as well as its safe- ty and anti-bacterial action in short and long-term applications. 16 COSSMA 7-8I2013 FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS INGREDIENTS With the help of which vegetable lipids can you create the most exciting cosmetic textures? Sarah Corporan, Bertin: Flower Essential Waxes will certainly help to create uncommon tex- tures. Some oils, such as Coriander Seed Oil will create a rich texture without any greasy touch. Also, Cupuacu Butter and Kokum Butter can be interesting alternatives to Shea But- ter for emollient and rich formulation. Rose FEW is soothing, Cassie (Acacia) FEW is whitening, Mimosa FEW is sebum regulating. Sandalwood Nut Oil has the highest content of the rare fatty acid Ximenynic Acid. For the vita- mins, Virgin Hibiscus Oil can be recom- mended. Could you please briefly character- ize the two eco-friendly anti-ageing actives StimulHyal and Hydreïs? Julie Corfa, Soliance: StimulHyal reinforces the water storage in the der- mis while Hydreïs decreas- es the water loss in the epidermis. Both products are obtained by using local vegetable and renewable raw materials in fermentation and bio- conversion steps. Moreover, they are two eco-friendly products, easily biodegradable with a low ecotoxicity and approved by Ecocert and Cosmos. Exciting options on the way Even more solutions available for formulators of natural cosmetics photo:Floydine,Shutterstock.com A very broad choice of Peruvian ingredients from Cobiosa, highly pure MicroSilver from BioEpiderm, plant-based lipids from Bertin for interesting textures, environmentally-friendly anti-ageing actives from Soliance, glutamate surfactants for a sustainable, mild skin cleanser from Schill & Seilacher, Ecocert conforming UV protection options from Sunjin, amino-acid based surfactants for mild skin cleansers from Sino Lion, multilayer applications to combat impure skin from BASF, multifunctional actives from Alina, and thickeners, emulsfiers and microemulsions for exciting textures – these were the topics presented at this year’s Impag cosmetics seminar. COS1307-8_16_Impag_GB_COS1307-8_12_Mani_D 26.07.13 11:27 Seite 16

Cossma 7-8/2013

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