Cossma 7-8/2013

all incoming materials, the co-product being a vegetable powder impregnated with oil, of interest for moisturizing body scrubs. The active oil contains no technological residual pollutant and no preservative. Non-oxidized, water and impurity-free, being enriched in antioxidant molecules, it is naturally stable to oxidation. High degree of dermal bioavailability The oily form of the oil actives facil- itates the trans-dermal passage of molecules for an improved action on target cells. The trans-dermal model in Franz cells demonstrated that the oil actives in a topical application are uni- formly absorbed both by the stratum corneum and the superficial layers of the epidermis. Microscopic observa- tion by fluorescence performed with a specific marker of anti-radical biophe- nols has shown that unlike vegetable oil, the biophenol-charged oil actives resulted in intense fluorescence. More- over, it was proven that they were non-cytotoxic, non-phototoxic, non-ir- ritating, non-allergenic and non-muta- genic. Their safety was demonstrated in vitro even in a pure form, thus ensur- ing their high skin tolerance. Proven activity on oxidative stress The oil actives have a particularly rich level of antioxidant molecules, free radicals or oxygen scavengers: tocopherols, sterols, vitamin E, co-en- zyme Q10 provided by oil, flavonoids, phenolic acids, vitamin C, and carotenoids contained in the plant. This antioxidant complex has a triple action: a guaranteed stability of the ex- tract, a stabilization of the cosmetic formulation, and prevention of cellular oxidative stress on the skin as a major factor of skin ageing. The assay of total expressed phenol as a chlorogenic acid equivalent, in oil alone, in a standard macerate and in the oil active – both obtained using the same couple (oil plant) and the same COSSMA 7-8I2013 13 Anne Rossignol-Castera Scientific & General Manager Oléos, Lunel, France a.rossignol-castera@oleos.fr www.oleos.fr mechanisms in the prevention of skin ageing and in the treatment of mature skin, make each Oléoactif a high per- formance anti-ageing active with both protective and restorative properties. To prove this, an in vivo test was per- formed on healthy volunteers aged between 45 and 65 years of age. They applied a cream containing 3% of propolis Oléoactif twice a day on the wrinkles of the crow’s feet and com- pared with a placebo. A fringe projec- tion followed by a cutaneous topo- graphical analysis showed a significant decrease of 23% of the main wrinkle area in only 28 days. Advantages for formulators The oil actives offer cosmetics for- mulators the following benefits: they are ready for use in an emulsified or anhydrous formula, they are oxidative- ly stable and have a stabilizing effect on formulations, they are free from chemical preservatives, allergen safe, highly skin tolerant and bio-certifiable. The plant world offers an infinite number of possible combinations en- abling the creation of a unique and ex- clusive oil active for each application that becomes patentable. A first collection of biological anti-ageing Oléoactifs is already available. They come from myrtle leaves, opuntia flow- ers and Berber pomegranates, alpine willow herb, cinnamon, and from an ul- tra-concentrated propolis, i.e. Oléoac- tif butter. Oléos also develops nutri- tional oil actives to combine the di- etary intake with the topical intake to nourish and protect the skin from in- side out. Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet box ratio, shows to what extent the pheno- lic compounds are enriched. An en- richment by a factor ranging from 5 to 100 can be obtained depending on the chosen couple, knowing that differ- ences are always significant (Student’s test). Thus, a virgin olive oil containing less than 50 ppm of phenols can lead to an oil active with a concentration of 2,000 ppm of total phenols, the values being expressed using the same ana- lytic reference system, and this if the selected plant appears to have a rich content in lipid-extractable phenolic compounds. This enrichment results in a significantly higher anti-radical activ- ity compared to a vegetable oil, ex- pressed with the ORAC (Oxygen Radi- cal Absorbance Capacity) value. An in vitro test confirmed the oxida- tive stress protection on a cellular model of reconstructed human epider- mis (fibroblasts) submitted to a photo- induced stress. The protective effect of the oil actives is compared to that of vitamin E and to the solvent oil alone. They have an oxidative stress protec- tion 10 times higher than pure vitamin E, which is explained by the synergistic action of all the antioxidant com- pounds involved. Protective and restorative anti-ageing active Essential omega 3 and omega 6 fat- ty acids provide properties such as membrane fluidity, anti-inflammatory protection and a regenerative action on skin lipids. Unsaponifiable mi- cronutrients, waxes, fatty alcohols, squalene, vitamin A and E, from the oil and the plant, combine together to provide hydration, emolliency and to improve the skin barrier function. Phe- nolic antioxidants and tocopherols protect the cell in an optimized way from oxidative stress and help balance the enzymatic mechanisms for the in- tegrity of collagen. All of these key INGREDIENTS FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS The oleo-eco-extraction technology Oleo-eco-extraction is a multi-step dynamic process combining various purely physical opera- tions, allowing the simultaneous or successive splitting of plant cells through cryogenic grinding or cavitation, to conduct an ultrasound micro-dispersion in oil, to extract phyto- compounds by a transfer of the most concentrated medium (the plant) to the less concen- trated medium (oil) under energy and molecular activation generated by high power mi- crowaves targeted at the centre of the mixture. The last step of the process consists in a centrifugal microfiltration to obtain a clear and ready-to-use oil active. Dedicated to the extraction of non-volatile compounds, all operations are conducted under inert atmos- phere to prevent oxidative reactions. The active extraction steps conducted on plant molecules last only a few minutes. Additional information at www.cossma.com/download or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for August: User name: cossma8 Password: nature DownloadsDownloads COS1307-8_12_Oleos_GB_COS1307-8_12_Mani_D 26.07.13 11:26 Seite 13

Cossma 7-8/2013

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