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ePaper created 2015-04-29, 11:32:09 | version 1.38.0
16 COSSMA 5I2015 The marine ingredient also in- creased bilirubin degradation, which consequently reduced eye shadowing. The test was performed for 24 hours with a mixture of 10 mg/mL of the ac- tive and 0.01% conjugated bilirubin in a test tube. With the help of high-per- formance liquid chromatography it was shown that 19.4% of the amount of bilirubin was reduced, which would correspond to a considerable decrease in eye circle pigmentation. Increase and improvement of skin support proteins Human dermal fibroblasts from adults were treated with 1 or 5 µg/mL active ingredient for 48 hours, and by means of an enzyme-linked im- munosorbent assay the concentration of type I collagen was determined. A significant increase of 61.8% in colla- gen I levels was observed for the 5 µg/mL active ingredient. Neonatal human dermal fibroblasts were incubated for 48 hours with 0.1 or 1.0 µg/mL active ingredient and the levels of elastin produced by the fi- broblasts were quantified using a dye- binding method. At the highest tested dose, the active ingredient increased the levels of elastin by 51.6%. The glycation of collagen was in- duced with an incubation of 0.2 M glucose and 0.6% collagen for 3 days at 60ºC. This was done both with and without the active ingredient at differ- ent concentrations. Finally the forma- tion of AGEs was evaluated using an enzyme immunoassay. The study proved that at 100 µg/mL the active in- gredient is able to reduce glycation of collagen by 29.7%, showing that the new marine ingredient is effective in preventing ageing. Reducing dark circles Twenty-one female subjects be- tween the age of 22 and 65 who had dark circles applied a placebo cream and a cream containing 1% of a solu- tion with the new plankton extract twice a day for 28 days. High resolution photographs were used to evaluate the intensity of dark coloration on the in- fraorbital eyelids. The treatment containing 1% of a solution of the active ingredient was 35.7% more effective than the placebo, so that the vascular component of dark circles was reduced by 11.5%. Decrease in bags under the eyes A placebo and a cream with 4% of a solution with the marine ingredi- ent were applied to the eye contour of twenty female subjects who had bags under their eyes and who were between 41 and 66 years old. Fringe projection was used to eval- uate the volume of the puffiness under the eyes. After 14 days of treatment, a signi- ficant decrease of the bags under the eyes was observed, and a more pronounced difference was seen after 28 days when the eye puffiness had decreased by 8.2%. Reduction in roughness of wrinkles Eighteen female subjects between the age of 40 and 54 applied a placebo cream on one eye and a cream with 2% of a solution with the new plankton ex- tract on the other eye, twice a day for 14 days. Topometry of crow’s feet wrin- kles was measured with the help of fringe projection in order to obtain val- ues for the average roughness (Ra), mean wrinkle depth (Rz) and maximum wrinkle depth (Rt). After 14 days, the treatment con- taining the active ingredient showed that the roughness had improved and that crow’s feet wrinkles had been smoothed out. Multifunctional ingredient improving the eye contour In vitro studies showed that the vas- cular permeability and bilirubin accu- mulation point were reduced, pointing to an anti-shadowing and puffiness effect of the new marine ingredient. In addition to helping reduce the phe- nomenon of bags under the eyes and dark circles in volunteers, it also pro- vided an anti-wrinkle effect through improvement of the extracellular matrix. Thanks to these multiple benefits, this active ingredient could be consid- ered to be a multifunctional ingredient responsible for a better and younger appearance of the eye contour. *Lipotec’s Eyedeline is owned by Lubrizol The reference list can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel Júlia Comas Product Specialist Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas Albert Soley, Raquel Delgado Lipotec, Gavà, Spain info@lipotec.com www.lipotec.com FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Changes in roughness at the end of the treatment Digital photographs of a volunteer’s eyebags at different times of treatment COS1505_14_Lipotec_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 07:02 Seite 16 COS1505_14_Lipotec_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.1507:02 Seite 16