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ePaper created 2015-04-29, 11:32:09 | version 1.38.0
Ī O ne of the first places where age- ing and fatigue signs start to ap- pear is in the eye area. Charac- terised by very delicate thin skin, the eye contour easily comes to be affected by several internal and external fac- tors. In spite of featuring beauty, health and personality traits, the eyes also easily reflect unwanted signs such as ageing or fatigue. As due to continuous facial expressions the eyes are in con- stant activity, wrinkles, bags under the eyes and dark circles start to appear as signs of premature ageing. Bags under the eyes and dark circles are the main result when the blood and lymph microcirculation deteriorates.1 Wrinkles, on the other hand, are most- ly due to a decrease and damage of the matrix proteins.2,3 With age, blood vessels become more permeable and fragile and the lymphatic drainage system deterio- rates, resulting in blood leakage and liquid retention under the eyes.4 These accumulated red blood cells are rich in haemoglobin, which gets further de- graded into bilirubin, a more orange- yellow by-product. The build-up of bilirubin gives rise to the visible shad- owing in the infraorbital eyelids. An- other factor that worsens the appear- ance of bags under the eyes and dark circles is when the proteins supporting the skin deteriorate. Consequently the skin under the eyes starts to sag be- cause its firmness decreases, and the accumulation of liquids makes it puffy. Wrinkles under or around the outer corner of the eye emerge, commonly known as crow’s feet, when skin-sup- porting proteins such as collagen and elastin decrease or are damaged. In ad- dition, protein glycation and oxidative damage lead to the formation of protein aggregates causing these com- ponents to lose their functionality. Once advanced glycation end-prod- ucts (AGEs) start forming, the altered structure of proteins results in dys- function. Luminosity in the eye area al- so decreases as a result of decreased and damaged collagen unable to re- flect the penetrating white light back toward the surface of the skin.5 14 COSSMA 5I2015 FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Multifunctional plankton extract Lipotec’s Eyedeline* marine ingre- dient (INCI name: Plankton Extract) has been designed with a view to com- plete care for the eye contour. This multifunctional active ingredient can counteract undesirable developments around the eyes. It has been shown to reduce the main signs of ageing, as it ameliorates vascular permeability, de- grades bilirubin, and improves the extracellular matrix. Decrease in vascular permeability A semi-permeable vascular barrier was formed from the growth of human umbilical vein endothelial cells on top of a porous membrane. The cells were then incubated for 24 hours with the medium alone (as a control) and with 1 µg/mL of the plankton extract. By measuring the levels of a fluores- cent molecule, vascular permeability was investigated in the two specimens. It was found to decrease by 20.8% when treated with the active ingredient. Marine ingredient Improving eye contour appearance Multifunctional active ingre- dient against undesirable effects around the eyes photo:Malyugin,Shutterstock.com Lipotec has developed a new multifunctional marine ingredient designed to preserve the area around the eyes and to weaken undesirable effects such as bags under the eyes, dark circles and wrinkles. These effects have been demonstrated with the help of a number of in vitro as well as in vivo studies. Additional information can be found at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00010 or you can just scan the QR code! Your access codes for May: User name: cossma5 Password: active DownloadsDownloads Digital photographs of a volunteer before and at the end of the treatment photos:Lipotec COS1505_14_Lipotec_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 07:01 Seite 14 COS1505_14_Lipotec_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.1507:01 Seite 14