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ePaper created 2015-04-29, 11:32:09 | version 1.38.0
12 COSSMA 5I2015 Elaborate in vitro studies have shown that this active ingredient was able to increase the expression of genes of a wide range of enzymes and proteins, all of which are important for the quality of the skin. This was further confirmed by histological analyses of epidermal skin models grown under its influence. In these studies it was shown that the speed of growth and the barrier function of the epidermal skin models (when treated with ProRe- new Complex CLR) were clearly better than control. The product was addi- tionally shown to strongly boost the production of both cathelicidin and β-Defensin-1. The use of ECIS (Electric Cell-substrate Impedance Sensing) showed that the active ingredient was able to increase cell cohesion. In this study the observed activity was both remarkably quick and very sustainable. Altogether, the results obtained in the in vitro studies clearly demonstrated its ability to both accelerate skin re- newal and improve the quality of the skin’s renewal process. In vivo tests confirm skin’s renewal process In order to further prove that the ac- tive ingredient is able to support age- ing skin in its renewal processes, an in vivo study was conducted, where both the speed and the quality of the skin’s renewal processes were assessed. In this study, test products were applied on designated skin areas on the inner forearm of 5 female volunteers (47–63 years old) for 2 weeks, twice daily. After that, tape stripping was performed to remove stratum corneum and induce skin damage. The application was then continued twice daily for another 4 days. Skin renewal and barrier recov- ery were determined by measuring stratum corneum thickness and TEWL (transepidermal water loss) at different time points after tape stripping. By measuring the thickness of the stratum corneum 1 hour, 2 days and 4 days after tape stripping, it was clearly shown that the skin treated with the active ingredient showed a signifi- cantly accelerated renewal of stratum corneum compared to the skin treated with placebo (see Fig. 1). The distinct indications, which were obtained in the in vitro studies, were confirmed in this in vivo study. Accelerating the skin renewal process in ageing skin is a topic which strongly resonates in the marketing and advertising of anti-ageing skin care products. “Speed” should be accompa- nied by “quality,” though. The skin treated with the new active ingredient also clearly showed an increased rate in recovery of a healthy barrier function of the skin (see Fig. 2). Probiotics for skin care Probiotics are renowned for their ability to support our body’s immune system. With the new ingredient ProRenew Complex CLR, this charac- teristic was translated to cosmetic skin care, boosting the skin’s renewal processes, accelerating it as well as im- proving its quality. This was shown both in in vitro and in vivo studies (from the gene level to the protein and enzyme level) and by making use of ECIS to monitor cell cohesion. In the in vivo studies the results obtained in the in vitro studies were demonstrated with extraordinary clarity. After remov- ing the stratum corneum by tape strip- ping, renewal of the skin and the recov- ery of its barrier function were shown to be accelerated with the help of the new active ingredient. It thus improves the health-related functioning of our skin and satisfies the main demands of the modern-day anti-ageing skincare user. Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel Harald van der Hoeven Director Technical Marketing CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter, Berlin, Germany hoeven@clr-berlin.com www.clr-berlin.com What do consumers expect from modern anti-ageing skin care? Modern-day users of anti-ageing skin care products predominantly desire the the skin’s age- ing process to be as slow as possible, as well as maintaining healthily functioning and looking skin. Nowadays, the fact that skin ages, is something which is considered to be a fact of life, but also something which you can take a preventive approach against. Supporting our skin cells with active cosmetic ingredients to improve their functionality is essential to this. FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Fig. 1: Acceleration of skin renewal Fig. 2: Stimulation of barrier recovery COS1505_10_CLR_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 06:57 Seite 12 COS1505_10_CLR_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.1506:57 Seite 12