“Experience in alternative
Cosmetic Preservation”
for the future prevention of in-
flammation processes, which ul-
timately might result in acne for-
mation. In addition, the common
juniper extract (Juniperus com-
munis) in the blend supports the
regeneration of stressed skin with
its antimicrobial and antioxidative
properties.
In vivo evaluation
In order to confirm themultitalent-
ed properties and proposed active
principle of the active ingredient,
an in vivo, half-side comparative
evaluation was conducted in co-
operation with the division of
Cos-
metic Science
at the
University of
Hamburg
. Twenty-five volunteers
between the age of 15–36 years
were asked to apply two hydro-
gel formulations, one containing
2% of our active ingredient and
one a control formulation, twice
a day over a course of 28 days on
one half of their face, respectively.
During the course of this in vivo
evaluation, the active ingredient
generated significantly-decreased
sebum secretion, contributed to a
more even skin surface, reduced
skin redness, decreased bacteri-
al growth and lowered the total
number of comedones.
Advantages of the active
ingredient
1. Reduction of sebum production
:
Sebum production of the skin was
quantitatively measured using se-
bum collector foils (Sebufix) at
the beginning of the in vivo test-
ing and on day 28 on both sides of
the volunteer’s faces. The quan-
tification (
Visioscan
) of sebum
from inside the pores revealed a
significant reduction of 28% af-
ter 28 days in comparison to the
control formulation. Figure 2*
shows sebum of the forehead’s
skin pores transferred to foil be-
fore (t0) and after treatment for
28 days.
Overproduction of sebum by the
skin’s sebaceous glands leads to
an enlarged sebaceous canal and
to visibly dilated pores. Clusters
of visible pores were particularly
seen at the beginning of the in vi-
vo evaluation, indicating oily and
blemish-prone skin. After 28 days
of treatment, pores were less vis-
ible and skin texture was refined
(Fig. 3). In total, a significant im-
provement of 8% over the control
due to Dermosoft Decalact Sebum
was measured.
Moreover, panellist perception
and scientific evaluation via clin-
ical scoring underscored the tech-
nically measured data. Asked
about their skin, panellists no-
ticed a significant improvement
over the control formulation re-
garding the greasiness and shine
of their skin. In addition, clinical
scoring regarding the number of
visibly dilated pores revealed a
mean improvement of 17% after
28 days, due to the active ingredi-
ent in the hydrogel formulation.
2.
Reduction of bacterial growth:
Visualisation of bacterial growth
was performed via fluorescence
imaging of porphyrins, metabolic
bacterial excretions lodged inside
infected pores. After treatment
for 28 days, images revealed that
on average, bacterial infection in-
side the pores was significantly
reduced by a margin of 12% in
comparison to the control formu-
lation, due to the active ingredi-
ent (Fig. 4).
3.
Reduction of skin redness:
Red
skin might be a sign of irritated
and inflamed skin caused by the
excretion products of bacterial in-
fection and oxidative stress. The
in vivo evaluation confirmed that
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