COSSMA, Ausgabe 4/2017 - page 32

photos: Svetlana Fedoseyeva (body), Maria Komar (camellia), Artem Kutsenko (apple), Shutterstock.com
“Preservative sensitisation has
been an issue in the past few years”
pressed and loose powder formu-
lations.
Polymer Expert’s Estogel E
is a
new oil thickening agent. 93%
bio-sourced, this new polymer is
derived from castor oil. It helps
the formulation of clear oil gel
with a good suspensive ability at
low concentration. Preservative
free, the polymer is an easy way
to gellify medium polarity to high
polarity oils, glycols, and even
fragrances at low percentages.
The gels with Estogel E show a
considerable thixotropy and are
easy to spray. This versatile poly-
mer facilitates the creation of new
textures.
Protameen’s Protachem DG
is a
vegetable-derived, 100%-renewa-
ble resource surfactant for use in
sulfate-free formulations. It pro-
vides mild cleansing with good
foam for use in traditional and
non-traditional cleansing systems
alike. It is especially useful in sen-
sitive-skin cleansers and col-
our-treated hair shampoos.
Sasol’s Cosmacol NII-9
is a solu-
biliser for fragrances and essen-
tial oils. Very low levels of this
study, women of different ages
had visible cellulite and visible
stretch marks. After 28 days of ap-
plication of 1.5%
IBR-TCLC
, a
sharp decrease in stretch marks
was evident as well as smoothing
of cellulite. Results show tighten-
ing of the skin at the hips and but-
tocks and plumping and rehydrat-
ing of the upper inner leg. Based
on the precedent Botox-like an-
ti-wrinkle effect of
IBR-Snowflake
,
and in analogy with the use of Bo-
tox as treatment against excessive
sweating, an antiperspirant effect
was shown with this ingredient. It
decreases perspiration by 36% af-
ter seven days of repeated twice-
a-day applications for dry, lighter,
smooth and flawless skin, for use
in face, body and underarm prod-
ucts.
Mamta Polycoats’
biodegradable,
non-toxic
Citrate Esters – Triethyl
Citrate (TEC)
are suitable for deo-
dorants, body lotions, body
creams and hair care products.
Micro Powders’ Naturesoft 800
is
a very fine biodegradable all-nat-
ural cellulose powder with supe-
rior binding properties, in com-
parison with zinc stearate and
Nylon 12. It imparts a soft feel to
product are required to solubilise
fragrances and essential oils in
water.
Ceralution ES
is an emulsi-
fier and dispersing agent to get
low viscous and sprayable
O/W-emulsions with the follow-
ing features: stable at pH 3–8, sta-
ble at up to 50°C and with high
tolerance to electrolytes as well as
to surfactants. Up to 40% oils can
be incorporated.
Cosmacol ELI
is
a multifunctional light emollient
which shows mild keratolytic and
moisturising effects. In rinse-off
products based on SLES/Betaine
systems, it also acts as a skin re-
fatting agent.
Isofol 20
, a Guerbet
alcohol, is a medium spreading
emollient and pigment disperser
suitable for colour cosmetics.
Ti-
tanel
is a purpose-made synthetic
hard wax for the formulation of
creams and ointments for body,
lip and hair care products.
Seiwa Kasei’s
both Ecocert and
COSMOS-approved
Promois WJ-
SP
is obtained from pea protein.
In the evaluation test, a face wash
with this ingredient shows higher
foaming ability than without it
and provides a sensory texture. It
is suitable for green body care
concepts.
/
Seppic’s Contacticel
from algae
stem cell technology is based on a
red algae, known to protect other
algae from environmental chang-
es and stress. This concentrated
protecting capacity is adapted to
the skin. It purifies the skin, help-
ing to reduce but mainly improve
the quality of sebum, thus pre-
venting skin disorders leading to
blemished skin. The skin barrier
is improved.
Proteol APL EF
is a
cleansing agent based on apple
nutrients (amino acids) charac-
teristic of apple juice. It is a nice
and mild foam booster and tex-
turiser, producing a creamy foam.
Sophim’s
wax-ester oil
Biophy-
tosebum
is a natural conditioner
IBR’s
ingredient
with a Botox-like
anti-wrinkle effect
also helps against
excessive sweating
BASF’s
surfactant-based
compound for
water-free shower
oils and oil baths
Greentech’s
slimming active acts
on four new targets
at the heart of
adipocytes
Seppic’s cleansing agent based on apple nutrients
GO FUTURE: BODY CARE
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COSSMA 4 I 2017
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