COSSMA, Ausgabe 4/2017 - page 37

INGREDIENTS
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“Suitable for long-term prevention and
the ­immediate treatment of impure skin”
ly-derived raw materials. Proven
in vivo, the blend reduces sebum
secretion, bacterial infection, skin
redness and skin imperfections
such as comedones in a very mild
manner at a low dosage. The new
blend
Dermosoft Decalact Sebum
is an efficient, cost-effective, nat-
ural cosmetic-compliant, safe al-
ternative to conventional actives
on the market.
Blemish-prone skin
Blemish-prone skin and skin im-
perfections are often associated
with an out-of-balance microflora
of the skin. The naturally-occur-
ring microorganisms, essential for
the well-being of the skin, are re-
placed by a group of in part harm-
ful bacteria. One of the etiological
factors of acne is the gram-pos-
itive bacteria Propionibacterium
acnes.
Microbiological challenge testing
revealed the good antimicrobial
performance of the active
Dermo-
soft Decalact**
within our blend
and its potential to serve as an
unrestricted alternative to tradi-
tional actives, such as salicylic ac-
id and triclosan, in the cosmetic
treatment of blemish-prone skin
(Fig. 1*). In an aqueous solution
containing 1% of the surfactant
Dermofeel G10L***
(pH 4.5) and
including either of the respective
antimicrobial actives, Propioni-
bacterium acnes was shown to be
reduced in in vitro testing.
However, it is well-known that
targeting bacterial infections
alone means to ignore the many
factors that lead to blemish-prone
skin. In most cases it starts with
out-of-control sebum production
of the skin (a) and the subsequent
initiation of further adverse fac-
tors (b-d).
Excessive sebum production
a) A moderate amount of sebum
secreted by the sebaceous
glands of the skin’s hair fol-
licles keeps our skin flexible
and moist. However, a multi-
tude of adverse factors disrupts
this fragile balance of the skin’s
sebum production, resulting in
excessive
, out-of-control
se-
bum excretion
. Besides the im-
mediate aesthetic consequence
of oily and shiny skin, such
overproduction can lead to a
series of further skin imperfec-
tions and to even more severe
adverse conditions of the skin.
Visibly dilated pores
b) Similar to a flood causing a riv-
erbed to expand, excessive se-
bum production can result in
dilation of skin pores
. The re-
sult is an uneven skin surface,
visible to the naked eye and
even more so through the lens
of a camera.
Comedones
c) Large amounts of sebum in the
upper part of the hair follicles
carries the risk to glue dead
skin cells together, to solidify,
and to finally block the exit of
the pores. As a result, the con-
tinuous flow of sebum is held
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