INGREDIENTS
40
l
COSSMA 4 I 2017
the active ingredient in a hydrogel
formulation was able to reduce
the intensity of red spots on the
skin to provide a more even ap-
pearance (Fig. 5). Overall, total
skin redness was reduced by 12%
over the control formulation.
4.
Reduction of comedones:
As
comedones are the result of a se-
ries of factors, eliminating these
causes combined with an effective
cleansing with the help of
Der-
mosoft Decalact Sebum
should
result in an overall reduction of
comedones. Precisely this was ob-
served during the in vivo evalua-
tion. Comedones were visibly re-
duced in number on the face of
the volunteers (Fig. 6) and clin-
ical scoring identified an average
reduction of 11% over the vehicle
control formulation.
5. Working in a mild way:
Even
oily and blemish-prone skin needs
moisture. It prevents stressed skin
from becoming even more irri-
tated. But without proper treat-
ment, including a moisturiser,
COMEDONES
form when the
continuous flow
of sebum is held
inside the pores
Oxidative stress
promotes the
inflammation of
the comedones
Fig. 3: Reduction of visible skin pores
t0
t0
t0
Panelist No.23
Panelist No.21
Panelist No.6
Panelist No.11
t0
28 days
28 days
28 days
28 days
Fig. 4: Reduction of bacterial growth (porphyrin fluorescence) after treatment
Fig. 5: Reduction of skin redness after treatment
Fig. 6: Fewer comedones on the forehead after treatment
blemish-prone skin easily dries
out, which leads to cellular dam-
age of the outer layer of the skin
and an increase in trans-epider-
mal water loss (TEWL). At the
same time, many cosmetic treat-
ments of blemish-prone skin with
the aim to fight comedones and
pimples are often accompanied by
irritating side effects; surfactants
are a particular culprit, tending to
damage the epidermis and hence
increase water loss even more.
With this in mind, we only in-
cluded very mild surfactants and
actives in our ingredient blend.
The surfactant
Dermofeel G10L
in the blend was analysed in our
application laboratory and was
proven to be very mild, with very
little and moreover quickly-re-
versible effects on the TEWL lev-
el of the skin. The designed mild-
ness of our blend was confirmed
during the in vivo evaluation. At
the end of the in vivo evaluation,
Corneometer
measurements re-
vealed a general improvement of
skin moisture after application of
the hydrogel formulation without
any detrimental effects on TEWL.
All-in-one solution
Our naturally-derived active blend
is a convenient all-in-one solution
free of preservatives and alcohol,
which in addition provides a good
performance for consumers. With
the help of this blend, various
natural or conventional cosmet-
ic concepts for oily or blemished
skin can be created that fulfil a
multitude of marketing claims.
The easy-to-use composition and
its low overall dosage facilitate the
formulator’s work. Thanks to its
mildness, it can be used for both
long-term prevention and imme-
diate treatment of impure skin.
This adds to the large number of
options for different uses in all
sorts of product types with only
one raw material.
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*These figures and additional information can be
found on the Internet – see download panel
**Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate
***Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
