Neurocosmetics represents the second generation of“wellbeing”cosme-
tics, which are strikingly different from classical care concepts for
sensi-
tive
skin. Active ingredient research for sensitive skin is concentrating
increasingly on studying complex neurocutaneous relationships. It is
known that not only neurons but also skin cells are capable of synthe-
sizing and excreting
neurotransmitters
and expressing the correspon-
ding receptors. The release of these messengers – many of which are
neuropeptides
– is triggered by physical, chemical or even emotional
stimuli, and has a considerable influence on how our
skin feels
.
GIVAUDAN presents three effective actives from its neurocosmetics
concept that positively affect the skin feel and skin balance:
• MARILIANCE
lowers the skin’s irritation threshold by inhibiting the
formation of pain receptors
• ÔCALINE XP
effectively inhibits histamine release and thus soothes
the skin
• NEUROPHROLINE
TM
reduces cortisol production and counteracts
skin stress
MARILIANCE – neurocutaneous balance
The natural high-tech active MARILIANCE (Water, Propanediol, Rhodo-
sorus Marinus Extract) is obtained from the
alga Rhodosorus marinus
.
This red microalga originates in the warm waters of the French Antil-
les. New research results at universities show that there is a correlation
between longevity and reduced expression of pain receptors. Could this
newly discovered correlation be the new key to youth?
MARILIANCE inhibits the formation of the
pain receptor TRPV1
in vitro
under inflammatory stress conditions. In a placebo-controlled clinical tri-
al involving 46 volunteers with reactive skin, a significant
reduction of
cutaneous sensitivity
was already achieved after 14 days (stinging test
with capsaicin).
ÔCALINE XP – suitable for sensitive skin
A complex of actives from
pumpkinseed extract
in combination with
a marine
active water
(Maris Aqua, Aqua, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract,
Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid), ÔCALINE XP inhibits hist-
amine release triggered by
substance P
.
In two clinical trials, a
reduction of erythema formation
and roughness
was demonstrated already 60 minutes after applying ÔCALINE XP, and a
42%
reduction of skin reactivity
after 2 weeks.
Fig 6: In a stinging test on 20 volunteers, 5% ÔCALINE XP reduced
skin reactivity by 24% after 7 days and by 42% after 14 days
NEUROPHROLINE
TM
– skin stress control
This extract of
wild indigo
(Water, Propanediol, Tephrosia purpurea
seed extract) exhibits the following effects:
• In vitro:
reduces cortisol production
in the event of skin stress by
up to 70%, increases
β
-endorphin production
by up to 163% and
activates anti-stress genes
• In vivo:
increases skin radiance
of the volunteers with stressed skin
by up to 57%,
reduces skin reddening
of stressed skin by a factor of
2.4, and improves the visible signs of tiredness
(eye circles)
Fig 7: NEUROPHROLINE
TM
reduces the signs of stressed and tired
skin after one month, dark eye circles can be reduced
4
4
3
2
1
Skin sensitivity
threshold
D0 D7 D14
*** p < 0.001
Reactivity score
–24%
–42%
Time (days)
***
***
MARILIANCE
INCI:
Water, Propanediol, Rhodosorus Marinus Extract
Appearance:
Clear liquid
Preservatives:
None
Application concentration:
1–3%
ÔCALINE XP
INCI:
Maris Aqua, Aqua, Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract, Benzyl Alco-
hol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid
Appearance:
Clear, yellow liquid
Preservatives:
Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate
Application concentration:
3–10%
Certificates:
ECOCERT compliant
NEUROPHROLINE
TM
INCI:
Water, Propanediol, Tephrosia purpurea seed extract
Appearance:
Clear, yellow liquid
Preservatives:
None
Application concentration:
0.1–2%
MARILIANCE, ÔCALINE XP UND NEUROPHROLINE
TM
are
GIVAUDAN products
Before treatment
After treatment
N E U R O C O S M E T I C S
Revolutionizing cosmetics
