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COSSMA 12I2013 3 EDITORIAL Innovations More than just fashion? ample source of inspiration appears to be the premium players’ answer to mass fragrances’ rapid upsurge,” ex- plains Nicole Tyrimou. Luxury and niche fragrance brand By Kilian has introduced a new fragrance, Musk Oud, to its Arabian Nights collection, which consists of four other oud-based fragrances. This follows an ongoing trend for oud in fragrances, already offered by the likes of Jo Malone, Tom Ford, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana, as oud is one of the most established scents in the Middle East. This trend, however, could also enliven the laundry and textiles sector with new interpretations of oud. Read the article by Christian Düllberg, MD of Düllberg Konzen- tra on page 27. And now I wish you not only lots of inspiration when you read our colourful cocktail this month, but also a thought- ful and contemplative Christmas with plenty of relaxation so that you can start 2014 with a full head of steam! Source: Euromonitor Andrea Weber, head of R&D at Babor, is convinced about future cosmetics trends: “Natural cosmetics will still set the trend, but probably will not be so puris- tic and dogmatic. We will also see more plant extracts with a scientifically proven action. Another thing that will impact on the cosmetics market is the subject of preservatives. What will be next, after parabens, which, following some bad press nobody wants to use any more? There are at the moment no alterna- tives with which everybody is 100 percent satisfied. Protection from infra-red radiation is a subject already being tackled by ingredients suppliers Lucas Meyer, Rahn and Sederma. There is certainly something that can be done there.” Starting on page 18 Andrea Weber puts forward some new scientific approaches presented at the IFSCC in Brazil and which were awarded prizes for their research work. And what is going on in the field of end products? According to Nicole Tyri- mou, Analyst Beauty and Personal Care at Eu- romonitor, in the course of the unprecedented pro- gression of nail polish an increasing number of brands are investing in nail art, a continuous driving force in nail polish innovation, to find a competitive ad- vantage. Ciaté, the British brand responsible and well-known for its contribution to the nail art craze and for the caviar manicure, has introduced a new line of nail polishes called Chalkboard combining chalk- board nail paint with small nail pens which the con- sumer can use to create different designs. The fash- ion-forward strategy of niche nail brands like Ciaté and Nails Inc. have translated into growth for premi- um nail polish while mass nail polish registered a slowdown in growth in 2012. At the more premium end of the spectrum, Yves Saint Laurent’s newest nail polish line, La Laque Couture Tie & Dye top coat, shows that a popular pastime for young girls playing at home with glitter, beads and mixing dyes has now moved to the catwalk, with luxury brands launching nail art offerings. “With no sign of a slowdown in mass fragrances, pre- mium players have been looking at new ways to in- crease their share. The rise of the Middle East as an Yours Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSMA Follow us on www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv PS: Our QR codes and our tablet-compatible e-paper will take you by direct links to TV clips, downloads, book tips and more. Download-services at www.health-and-beauty.com/ webinar or scan the QR code now! Your access codes for December User name: cossma 12 Password: new DownloadsDownloads COS1312_03_Edi_GB_Layout 1 25.11.13 13:47 Seite 1

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