Cossma1411_GB

14 COSSMA 11I2014 FOCUS: COSMECEUTICALS INGREDIENTS hibits superior stability in aqueous so- lutions. Resistant to heat and oxygen, this active ingredient is stable in for- mulations, and remains inactive and chemically stable under atmospheric conditions until applied on the skin. Once applied, it can be easily hydro- lysed by intradermal enzymes to form ascorbic acid for effective transdermal delivery. Hi-Carnitine (HLC), combating common signs of ageing skin, is a new carnitine derivative that can penetrate through skin, and that releases carni- tine enzymatically. Methyl Hesperidin is a hesperidin derivative with high water solubility properties. When used in combination with vitamin C, it is able to enhance the whitening effects of skin care products, while its anti-glyca- tion effect prevents dullness and loss of elasticity in skin. www.sdk.co.jp Wackers antioxidant Hydroxyty- rosol acts as a free radical scavenger and can reduce skin ageing and dark pigmentation. www.wacker.com Lonza have shown that Rice Meris- tem Cultures protect, rejuvenate and repair skin at the epigenetic, protein, and macro level. In an in vivoassay the application of the rice culture had mul- tiple visible benefits at the macro level, including increasing the barrier func- tion and skin hydration. www.lonza.com Induchem’s new studies on Opioid Receptor Delta as a global modulator of skin differentiation and barrier func- tions demonstrate the interest of one agonist peptide in anti-stress/ageing skin care applications, during a clinical trial made on a population of volun- teers, 50% of them being smokers. www.induchem.com News from the … … multi-facetted world of actives Moisturizing creams in future will need to consider the various requirements of the skin by different ethnicities photo:DSM C osmetic actives should, in dif- ferent ways try to get to grips with the problem of skin ageing. But actives should also act as problem solvers when it is a matter of dry skin, sensitive hair loss, or cellulite. When applying BASF’s new active ingredient Epigenist on the skin, it re- verses the natural degradation of nerv- ous fibres and their growth restarts. Extracted from the African bambara pea (voandzeia subterranea), this ac- tive ingredient improves the longevity of cells, the epidermis is thicker and better organized and the proliferation of cells is increased. Their active ingre- dient Lox-Age, a skin relief perfector, is capable of restoring the expression of LOX (lysyl oxidase), which is indispen- sable to the differentiation of ker- atinocytes to a similar level as young skin. www.basf.com Sederma’s Optim Hyal has been de- signed to stimulate hyaluronic acid neosynthesis and sustain its turnover. It restores the optimum level of hyaluronic acid in the skin to make it smooth, moisturised and as supple as young skin. The active ingredient con- tains Glycokines, i.e. specific signalling oligosaccharides that structurally and functionally mimic the hyaluronic frag- ments found in the skin. They have been demonstrated to stimulate the hyaluronic acid synthesis on both ker- atinocytes and fibroblasts for a visible improvement in skin smoothness, moisture and suppleness after just one month. www.sederma.fr Showa Denko’s Ascomate-C with skin brightening, anti-ageing and acne care effects is a vitamin C derivative for use in personal care products that ex- Tackling skin ageing and other undesirable skin conditions is an important aim of cosmetic actives. We bring you here a selection of the latest actives and the results of recent research. Natural cell-growth active from coconut evaluated as a hair growth promoter photo:Kesu,Shutterstock.com COS1411_14_Cosmeutocals_GB_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 27.10.14 08:26 Seite 14

Cossma1411_GB

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