Cossma1411_GB

COSSMA 11I2014 3 EDITORIAL Special actives in focus Croda into second place. A flawless complexion as a glob- al beauty ideal can be spoilt by different causes, as Angela Kleiner of Croda explains, starting on page 10. She shows us which actives can be used to combat which skin irregularities. Those interested in this topic can learn more on the sub- ject of The phenomenon of sensitive skin and should take part in the English language COSSMA Webinar on Tues- day, November 11th at 14.00. Here Angela Kleiner will up- date us, live, on the typical signs of sensitive skin and new approaches towards its protection and regeneration. At www.cossma.com/webinar you can register free-of- charge for this on-line event. And for those interested in new actives the article starting on page 14 should not be missed. Enjoy reading this issue and enjoy the Webinar … *Kline Specialty Actives in Personal Care 2013 Consumers usually hope for immediately visible ef- fects from cosmetic products. So it’s no wonder that R&D departments are constantly under pressure to come up with new principles and new types of active. The market researchers at Kline* put cosmetic ac- tives into five categories: plant-based actives, biotech- nically obtained actives such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, marine actives, proteins and peptides, plus enzymes and coenzymes. The main skin func- tionalities of these ac- tives include anti-age- ing, anti-acne, anti-in- flammatory, brighten- ing, lifting and sun pro- tection. The demands placed on anti-ageing products are particu- larly wide-ranging. They have to provide DNA protection, act as a source of energy, but should also have anti-stress, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxida- tion, moisturising, skin firming and anti-cellulite properties. Hence in 2013 the half of all facial care products worldwide – and these take the lion’s share of body care products – made anti-ageing claims. Looking forward to 2018 Kline identified anti-ageing actives, with annual growth rates of more than 5 percent, as the greatest driver of growth in the cosmetics industry. Traditionally Europe is the biggest market for special actives, but in emerging markets growth is becoming significant. Interestingly the use of plant-based actives is the biggest sector, both in Europe and the USA, and accounts for 50 percent. The situation in Brazil, for in- stance, is quite different. There it is proteins and pep- tides that take almost 75 percent of the special actives business. In China the high availability of biotechnologically produced actives accounts for the fact that they represent 50 percent of sales. Whilst in all other regions anti-ageing actives domi- nate the market, in Brazil it is hair care actives that put anti-ageing in the shade. Croda is the global number one as a supplier of speciality actives, and only in China does Freda put Yours Angelika Meiss Senior editor, COSSMA PS: Our QR codes and our tablet compatible E-paper take you quickly and directly to TV clips, downloads, book tips and more Additional informations at www.health-and-beauty.com/ qr00037 or scan the QR code now! Your access codes for November: User name: cossma11 Password: derma DownloadsDownloads Follow us on: www.linkedin.com/in/cossma www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin www.youtube.de/cossmatv COS1411_03_Edi_GB_COS1409_03_Edi_GB 27.10.14 08:19 Seite 1

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