Cossma 9/2013 GB Teaser

11th July 2013, products with one of the 26 perfume substances list- ed can no longer say that they are fragrance-free, nor may any per- fume compound that is used, even if its main use is not as a per- fume. There will also be stricter controls on allergen declarations. Dr. Jonathan Warr, global leader, Fragrance and R&D at Takasago, highlighted the hypoallergenic issues for citrus, aromatic lavender and rose-floral types. He stated that the industry has responded by creating low allergen accords that smell like the original, and by ed- ucating consumers to evolve their tastes, as well as the commercial development of novel or lesser used materials. In terms of future challenges, he looked at health and sustainability, mentioning an ecolabel, which is now being extended to cosmetics as well as household detergents. Global products face challenges, such as the ban on CFCs, and in Europe the total ban on fluoros, which has resulted in more butane-propane mixes. The second panel discussion featured Pleasure, Wellbeing and Emotion as its theme with presentations about how the brain processes smell to the value added benefits for fragrance in cos- metics. Arnaud Monte, global consumer science director, flavours and fragrance at IFF, explained that character and memorability, the olfactive fit to the brand, and the concept, all make people want to buy a product. Francis Herbert, Cinquieme Sens, explained how he had met many marketing managers who consider the addition of fragrance to be a cost, not an investment in a product. “Fragrance is key and will generate purchases,” he maintained. Claudie Willemin, president, Societé Française de Cosmétologie (SFC), explained that fragrance is one of the first things a consumer will notice when buy- ing a cosmetic or personal care product. “Emotions must fit the concept and performance of the product,” she said. “The brand must impart wellbeing and self-esteem to the customer.” She cited the examples of Ambre Solaire and Nivea as two long-standing brands where the fragrance has become the memory of the brand, triggering hedonistic emotion. The conclusion was that fragrance is the signature of the brand and can be formulated to enhance the efficacy of the product. As such, fragrance should be considered an integral part of brand development. Further details on the marketing trends can be found on the website: www.in-cosmetics.com Coconut and vanilla dominate the edible category and are popular in Europe and North America Imogen Matthews In-Cosmetics Consultant Oxford UK natural fragrancefor perfume-free skin care products oléoSense sensitive, triple- acting complexes patented eco oléo-extraction Moisturisation, protection and repair of the skin’s barrier 100% natural extracts with very low allergen potential Synergistic complexes based on plant oils, butters, waxes and classic plant fragrances Guaranteed minimum/maximum levels of biophenols, essential fatty acids, non-saponiﬁable content and allergens. Developed by professional perfumers www.mani-gmbh.de/oleosense oléo sensemyrrh oléo sensecinnamon oléo sensetonka oléo senseiris oléo sensevanilla oléo sensefrankincense additional information, samples & formulations: info@mani-gmbh.de +49 211 5072509 photos:KesuandSubbotinaAna,Shutterstock.com COS1309_20_Imogen_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.08.13 12:49 Seite 21

Cossma 9/2013 GB Teaser

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