Cossma 9/2013 GB Teaser

or scent. When it comes to deodorant 52% of Americans like to smell the product before buying. “This suggests there are more opportunities to allow consumers to test deodorants on the shelf, perhaps by offering ‘scratch and sniff’ technology on packaging,” com- mented Moeglin. She emphasised that scent is a priority when shopping for a personal care product. “Understanding this, manufacturers are putting more importance on scents and enhancing creativity, quality and the sensory experience of toiletries.” Mintel has tracked key scent trends in product launches between 2008 and 2012. The top 5 olfactory trends are: floral, gourmet/edible, fruity, green/ herbal/woody, and fantasy. Floral notes are mostly found in Europe and Asia- Pacific, with lavender, rose and jasmine proving popular. Coconut and vanilla are still the top scents in the edible cat- egory driven by Europe and North America. According to Mintel, very few personal care products are unscented, between 1% and 4%, depending on the category. Yet, very few actually specify a fragrance and instead emphasise their 20 COSSMA 9I2013 ingredients and skin care benefits e.g. coconut oil, ylang extract etc. The cate- gories that market the most scents are soap, shower and deodorant. Moeglin observed that toiletries scents are becoming more sophisticat- ed as manufacturers borrow from fine fragrances or try out new scent combi- nations. These include original fusions such as raspberry and lime (Dove hand wash), goji berry and orchid (Dial shower gels) and rose and cherry in bloom (Dettol hand wash). Another trend is the idea of bringing the kitchen into the bathroom, with examples such as Tomato Vine by Method Orla Kiel, Nivea Guarana and Red Fruits Soap and Quince & Vanilla Milk shower by Cottage. Spices and aromatic notes are on the rise, such as Dial Blackberry & Coriander liquid soap, and The Body Shop Ginger Sparkle Bath Crystals. Future trends will include new scent- ed formats, such as perfume for the hair and laundry care that smells the same as a favourite fragrance. As fine fra- grance for men becomes more sophisti- cated, so too will the opportunities for men’s personal care products. Rulatory issues and marketing The first panel discussion covered the current regulatory status in Eu- rope. Amendments to the IFRA Code of Practice (2) are now issued every two years from 2013, based on new scientif- ic developments. These contain either new usage restrictions or revisions of existing ones. The 47th Amendment was issued in spring 2013. The 1223/2009 article 20 changes cover fragrance-free claims. As from photos: Topseller, Valentin Volkov, Olga Miltsova, Shutterstock.com T he president of the French Per- fumers Society, SFP, Patrick Saint-Yves, is convinced. “Most people talk about fine fragrance when they think about fragrance. However, the fragrance compounds market is divided into three sections: fine fra- grance, personal care – where the prof- it lies – and fabric/aircare. Fragrance is not used simply for technical reasons, but to impact on the consumer’s emo- tions,” he explained. Emmanuelle Moeglin, global fra- grance and personal care analyst at Mintel, presented the latest research into global fragrance consumer habits, based on 5,000 respondents. This high- lighted the importance of fragrance to consumers when choosing toiletries products. For example, a nice smell is the second most frequently mentioned attribute for shower gel in Europe, and almost as close as functionality. In the US 36% of consumers buy bath and soap mainly for their scent, compared to 42% who look for extra moisturisers. Shampoos and conditioners are se- lected by nearly half (44%) of American consumers for their pleasant fragrance MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT photo:SubbotinaAnna,Shutterstock.com Floral notes with rose, jasmine and lavender are proving popular and are mostly found in Europe and Asia Pacific Fragrance in cosmetics In recognition of the important role played by fragrance in cosmetics, at this year’s In-Cosmetics show a specially designated new zone showcased the latest products, tech- nologies and technical knowhow from 21 fragrance houses and fragrance ingredients suppliers, complemented by a special half-day educational programme. In-Cosmetics consultant Imogen Matthews has summarized the most important findings. Future trends include new scented for- mats, such as perfume for the hair that smells the same as a favourite fragrance COS1309_20_Imogen_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 26.08.13 12:49 Seite 20

Cossma 9/2013 GB Teaser

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