Cossma 7-8/2013 GB Teaser

W ith consumers’ growing concern for the environ- ment, and their own per- sonal well-being, brand owners and formulators are increasingly looking for natural-based ingredients. Plan- tasens is an all natural range of highly sensorial ingredients, including plant- based actives, multifunctional emulsi- fiers and a broad selection of emol- lients, which support the search for natural products without compromis- ing on quality or performance. Most Plantasens products are also Ecocert approved. Emollients for extensive formulation possibilities The natural emollients in the range offer extensive formulation possibili- ties. The much-demanded alternatives to silicones, petrolatum & lanolin, nat- ural and sensorial butters, oils and waxes can be used to develop a wide variety of emulsions from lotions to rich creams with different sensory profiles. Clariant has created a sensory pro- file overview to help formulators easily see the far-reaching potential of this range. The overview shows each emol- lient positioned in terms of absorption in the skin during application (quick or slow) and the after-feel produced (light to rich) once it has been absorbed by the skin. For instance, Olive Squalane and AJO absorb into the skin quite quick- ly during application but give dif- ferent after-feels; AJO being richer than Olive Squalane. On the other hand, Olive Butter and Mango Butter have a very similar after-feel but Olive Butter is absorbed into the skin more rapidly than Mango Butter. Overall, the graph serves as a tool that helps for- mulators choose the most suitable emollient for the type of product being developed. 14 COSSMA 7-8I2013 FOCUS: NATURAL COSMETICS INGREDIENTS Alternatives to silicone, petrolatum & lanolin For the many developers who re- quire an alternative to silicones to achieve formulations with a pleasant skin feel and a good rating in independ- ent consumer tests (e.g. Ökotest, the German magazine for product testing) Sensolive LD offers a solution that mimics the cyclomethicone sensory profile. This ingredient has been de- signed to absorb very rapidly into the skin and to leave a very dry and light after-feel. It is stable to oxidation, it is transparent and has a neutral odour. It also has a similar anti-soaping effect to dimethicone in emulsions, and its vis- cosity remains stable with increases in temperature. Furthermore, it has simi- lar conditioning properties to dime- thicone in hair care products and allows the formulation of transparent sham- poos when adding 1% of this ingredient. Plantasens also offers alternatives to petrolatum and lanolin that are Eco- cert approved, and have the same cos- metic properties and applications as the corresponding synthetic or animal origin product. Vegetable Petrolatum Natural ingredients with a sensory effect High-performance natural ingredients for a wide variety of emulsions photo:Modella,Shutterstock.com Cloé Cibil Le Meudec from Clariant explains the benefits of Plantasens, a range of plant-based actives, multifunctional emulsifiers and a broad selection of emollients providing sensorial advantages and performance for natural cosmetics. A specially developed sensory profile helps formulators choose the most suitable emollient for the type of product being developed. Sensory Profile Overview COS1307-8_14_Plantasense_GB_COS1307-8_14_Plantasense_D 26.07.13 11:26 Seite 14

Cossma 7-8/2013 GB Teaser

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