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News New slimming and anti-ageing material Showa Denko | Showa Denko has developed HCAP, a hydroxycitric acid (HCA) derivative as a cosmetic raw material that deeply permeates the skin and cell membrane, contributing signifi- cantly to the effect of slimming and skin anti-ageing. As HCA is water-soluble and does not readily permeate the skin, it was difficult to use HCA in cosmet- ics. SDK has developed a lipo- philic derivative of HCA, increas- ing transdermal permeability of the active com- pound (HCA). www.showa-denko.com Reversing skin ageing Greentech | Reverskin (see page 40) is a global anti-ageing active which speeds up the creation and stabilisation of the der- mo-epidermal junction (DEJ). The cohesion between dermis and epidermis is enhanced. The DEJ is stronger and the skin is firmer and more elastic. In vitro, the active stimulates epidermal renewal by increasing proliferation of basal cells by 3.3 and differentiation by 5.3 at 0.2%, in comparison to control cells. The epidermis becomes more stratified – more quickly – and recovers the volumi- nous density of young skin. The stratum corneum gets its cohe- sion back and works as a strong barrier again. www.greentech.fr Reshaping the face contour Lipotec | Lipotec has performed a new test on its Uplevity tetrapeptide, which counteracts the sagging and ageing effects on the skin by increasing collagen and functional elastin synthesis. It further contributes to skin firmness by overexpressing genes involved in cellular cohesion due to focal adhesions that are the interference between the actin cytoskeleton and extracellular matrix. The result is an improved quality of mature skin. In the new in vivo study, at the end of the treatment the following results were observed: improved skin firmness (25.2% decreased maximal deformation), enhanced general elasticity of the skin (16% increase in overall elasticity) as well as a visible lifting effect of the face contour with a decrease of 0.13 cm. In addition, a self-assess- ment conducted by the participants regarding the efficacy of the product revealed that 95% of volunteers noticed a more toned skin after using the 2% peptide solution and 90% believed that the treatment offered a firming effect. www.lipotec.com Ingredients New solutions revealed Dr. Straetmans | Dermofeel easymuls plus is a single emulsifier for sprayable concepts with a light skin feel. A further advantage of this raw material is the applicability in cold production, making it economic and easy to use. Dermofeel enlight is a natural effective whitening active material. This blend is based on phytic acid and mulberry extract with in vivo-proven activity. It is especially suitable for natural age spot correction applications and skin lightening products. www.dr-straetmans.de photo:ViacheslavNikolaenko,Shutterstock.com Tetrapeptide counteracts the sagging and ageing effects on the skin photo:Ollyy,Shutterstock.com photo:K.Kapon,Shutterstock.com Active ingredient that smooths out the microrelief while strengthening the dermo-epidermal junction A hydroxycitric acid (HCA) derivative with increased transdermal permeability photo:Wavebreakmedia,Shutterstock.com Emulsifier suitable for sprayable concepts with a light skin feel PRODUCTION  INGREDIENTS NEWS 44 l COSSMA 9 I 2015 COS_42_44_Ingredients.indd 44 25.08.15 17:25 COS_42_44_Ingredients.indd 4425.08.1517:25

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