COSSMA, Teaser, Ausgabe 3/2017 - page 10

high particle sizes of approximately
10–20 µm and are largely produced
with several different emulsifiers (O/
W- as well as W/O-emulsifiers)
1,2
Sopharcos
presents a stable multiple
W/O/W nanoemulsion as a dermal
delivery system for cosmetics and
pharmacy. The new nanoemulsion is
formulated with one skin-friendly
O/W emulsifier of renewable plant
origin with a HLB-value of 11. It is
emulsified in only one step at room
temperature.
The lipophilic ingredients are solubi-
lised and mixed, then the water solu-
tion including the active ingredients
is added. The extremely homoge-
nous size of the vesicles in the area
of 100–150 nm is achieved by simple
high-pressure homogenisation. The
W/O/W nanoemulsion can be incor-
porated in gels, lotions, creams and
also masks (e.g. cellulose) and then
is able to transport the enclosed ac-
tive substances into the skin.
In comparison to customary flexible
liposomes, higher encapsulation effi-
ciencies of active substances could
be proven with a better penetration
potential at the same time. Moreover,
this nanoemulsion also indicates cos-
metic effects such as smoothing of
the skin and an increase of the skin’s
moisturisation without encapsulated
active substances
3
.
Broad choice of micro­
encapsulated products
Tagra
has developed more than 50
microencapsulated products.
Sun-
Caps
are non-breakable and trans-
parent microcapsules containing UV
filters both organic and inorganic.
They are made of a single layer cel-
lulose-based polymer shell, which
provides optimal isolation of the UV
filter and prevents its degradation
while improving its UV protection
profile. Since the EU regulations for
zinc oxide allow it to be used as a
sunscreen agent,
ZinoCap
is particu-
larly suited for Europe.
CelluCaps
are new capsules made
from cellulose-based polymers for
the encapsulation of vitamins such
as pure retinol, vitamin C derivatives
and more.
Tagravit R1
microcapsules
are 30–40 μm in diameter and loaded
with 7% pure retinol based on Ta-
gra’s Release on Demand (RND)
technology, which enables optimal
isolation of the retinol. Therefore it
protects it from instabilities and over-
comes incompatibilities.
CameleonCaps
are microencapsulat-
ed pigments for colour transforma-
tion. They are made from a biode-
gradable cellulose-based polymer.
The original shade is hidden, whilst
maintaining the formulation’s white
appearance and texture. At the mo-
ment of application, the pigment is
released.
CelluOils
are new cellulose-based
capsules for the stabilisation and
long-lasting effect of essential oils/
fragrances.
WS Tech
is a new technology based
on nanoemulsion for converting
non-water-soluble ingredients into
water-soluble ones. The first product
to promote within this range is the
WS SA50
, a water-soluble form of
salicylic acid.
SiCaps
are encapsulated silicones for
sensorial benefits. They are designed
to overcome formulation challenges
resulting from the inclusion of sili-
cones.
References Sopharcos:
1
T. Schmidts et al.; Int. J. Pharm 398 (2010) 107-113, “De-
velopment of W/O/W Emulsions as dermal carrier system
for oligonucleotides”
2
M. Hoppel et al.; J Drug Deliv Sci Tec 25 (2015) 16-22,
“Multiple W/O/W Emulsions as dermal peptide delivery
system”
3
K. Heinrich; Dissertation 2012, Universität Witten/
Herdecke
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see download panel
Core encapsulated
material
Protective shell
Only vegetarian food-grade ingredients
are used in Lambson’s process for
core-shell microencapsulation
W/O/W Emulsion
Water Droplets
Water
Oil phase
in
in
100 nm TEM
W/O/W Nanoemulsion
W/O/W Emulsion
Water Droplets
Water
Oil phase
in
in
100 nm TEM
W/O/W Nanoemulsion
The dermal delivery system W/O/W nanoemulsion is formulated
with only one emulsifier in only one step (right)
GO FUTURE: NEW IDEAS
l
17
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 11,12
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