Cossma1311_GB_Teaser

Which are the active ingredients that are particularly good when you are thinking of launching products in the field of cosmeceuticals or dermo- cosmetics? Here you can find the results of an exclusive COSSMA survey that will give you some important guidance and stimuli. lanolin, the ingredients’ lipids play a crucial role in skin moisture control. Naturatec Ultra O active is a highly re- fined natural and renewable concen- trate of olive oil unsaponifiables, where the main active substance is Squalene (min. 85%). It appears to function in the skin as a quencher of singlet oxygen, protecting human skin surfaces from lipid peroxidation due to exposure to UV light and other sources of oxidation. Induchem’s Neodermyl has been chosen for an award by the In-Cosmet- ics in Paris and by the Sepawa associa- tion. Solvent-free phosphorylation, a green chemistry process, is used to de- velop a new derivative of glucose as a cellular source of energy. Pre-activated and unable to induce glycation reac- tions, it is combined with human es- sential amino acids and copper. The active can naturally diffuse in skin to re-energise senescent fibroblasts and bring essential elements to produce collagens and elastin. Together with the Kasturba Re- search Centre for Reverse Pharmacolo- gy of Traditional Medicine in Mumbai, 18 COSSMA 11I2013 FOCUS: COSMECEUTICALS + MORE INGREDIENTS the Kurz Institut is researching into in a project where molecules or combina- tions of molecules are active and effec- tive as extracts in Ayurvedic medicine, as described in the Indian Shastras, referring to the Triphala, Amalaki and Centella asiatica plants which are de- scribed as rejuvenating for the skin. According to the latest studies on Defensil Plus from Rahn the active in- gredient is said to effectively compen- sate for lipid deficiencies in the outer- most layers of sensitive skin and to assist in soothing inflammatory pro- cesses, and as such counteract the un- derlying causes of skin disorders, in- flammation, and discomfort. Regeron offers new ingredients com- posed of combinations of synthetic hu- man polypeptide growth factors. Claire- someLYC for skin care has anti-wrinkle and anti-itching properties and induces a healthier complexion. Repilosom- eGYC for hair care is characterised by its anti-hair-loss and hair growth proper- ties. Because all of these synthetic hu- man polypeptides are also present in human tissues, they are claimed to be natural and safe to human skin. Sederma’s Resistem, a plant extract obtained by caloric restriction of Glo- bularia cordifolia stem cells, is said to act as an “anti-ageing bodyguard” for human skin. It provides a hermetic-like effect which helps the skin to fight and protect itself against noxious pro-age- ing agents by stimulating cell detoxifi- cation (proteasome activity), extend- ing cell lifespan (sirtuin-1) and regen- erating tissues (skin stem cells). Sepiwhite MSH QD from Seppic is an active skin whitening ingredient which has now been registered as an adjuvant for quasi-drug formulas by the Japanese Ministry of Health and Wellbeing. When combined with a standard whitening agent, the active doubles the agent’s whitening proper- ties. The lipoaminoacid acts as a biovector for phenylalanine and com- plies with the Ecocert standard. AM Actives with special features A broad selection of ingredients that can be used in cosmeceutical and dermocosmetic products photo:Serena_Carminati,Shutterstock.com¿ W e bring you here a selection of active substances with a special action. They protect the skin’s barrier, offer a plant-based al- ternative to lanolin, act as a quencher of singlet oxygen, assist in soothing in- flammation, stimulating cell detoxifi- cation, and act as whitening agents. Ceratec’s Naturatec Abysoft com- bines and enhances the benefits of Crambe oil with the bioactive effects of phytosterols. It contains long chain fat- ty acids, making it resistant to oxida- tion and, due to its high molecular weight, is more stable against heat. It is non-irritant and acts directly on the epidermis to protect the cutaneous barrier by forming a thin film on the skin. It retains the vital balance of water to maintain the skin in optimum condi- tion. It has self-emulsification and co-emulsifying properties. Naturatec Plantsoft L, manufactured from renew- able vegetable ingredients, has a simi- lar appearance to lanolin. On a senso- rial base the characteristics of spread- ability, shine, tackiness, thickness and elastic effect are equivalent. Similar to COS1311_18_Cosme_GB_COS1305_16_Babor_D 25.10.13 13:34 Seite 18

Cossma1311_GB_Teaser

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